tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-63564256598735040942024-03-05T15:00:52.344+05:00Making Electronicsdiy, microcontrollers, led lighting, random hacks and repairavrnoobhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03442239095072309381noreply@blogger.comBlogger51125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6356425659873504094.post-26810646820397348082015-09-28T04:11:00.000+05:002015-09-28T04:13:37.403+05:00Neato Botvac Lidar Repair Part 2: Lidar PCB Replacement<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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So the final fix will be replacing Lidar turret. But as I said in the part 1 of <a href="http://blog.avrnoob.com/2015/08/neato-botvac-lidar-repair-part-1-ir.html" target="_blank">Neato Botvac Lidar Repair</a> I could not find Botvac Lidar turret to replace. But there are many XV Lidar turrets available on eBay and Amazon.<br />
And they are different. XV series turret has mechanical data and power connection between spinning turret head and base using sliding contacts. This is major point of failure of XV series turrets. And Botvac turret has optical data connection to the base and wireless power, so no contacts would fail. Well how do we replace the Botvac turret using XV series turret if they are not compatible?<br />
<br />
Let's take them apart and compare. I removed housing from both units.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwsMC4JEw0Mz-VylXak_8iBcPTi7buhvNIinzv7_JxTrdFgf6dCQHI3DMOBhNNEaSBlxwYIVO2IYy1oawMBeb1_oJFo0DpbwgIPuar9gkdY92T-iMoaauUcyU-zbFlOiKCVHpdBcutjHNs/s1600/neato+lidar+lens+compare.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="241" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwsMC4JEw0Mz-VylXak_8iBcPTi7buhvNIinzv7_JxTrdFgf6dCQHI3DMOBhNNEaSBlxwYIVO2IYy1oawMBeb1_oJFo0DpbwgIPuar9gkdY92T-iMoaauUcyU-zbFlOiKCVHpdBcutjHNs/s640/neato+lidar+lens+compare.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
As you can see there is a bit different lens and different laser diode housing.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfzArlyI54F8wBUK5DB-sdaORX9Q7ovhvRthQUFGH-AkB7KaFQvfxJVHDtoJp7Mk0GSKEtQdQr1tR-JbwvcCquWemw00cF3sjShYZMFjqRNOzinSHuHWFJEZUb0URReHBAHCfi2BBrjvKl/s1600/neato+lidar+pcb+connection+compare.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="294" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfzArlyI54F8wBUK5DB-sdaORX9Q7ovhvRthQUFGH-AkB7KaFQvfxJVHDtoJp7Mk0GSKEtQdQr1tR-JbwvcCquWemw00cF3sjShYZMFjqRNOzinSHuHWFJEZUb0URReHBAHCfi2BBrjvKl/s640/neato+lidar+pcb+connection+compare.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
The same 3 wires from laser diode and 5 wires from Lidar PCB soldered to the base. Also a note, that connector for a laser diode may go loose because of rotating vibrations and such. This is a point of failure which cause "can not see" errors. Easy to fix though, just pull it out and reseat. Also cleaning might help, and also metal pins inside laser wire part can be loosen and should be squeezed to sit tighter in the pcb connector.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhG-BR-zYTxL-BgrINisNboGNs7Aib9iEQ9Gnqg9ewBXTQij-dy3UsR9tUDx4sw9sJO8OQZsahXe-b1dRc-8iw_MO3Gy8dxDEn6uhvO2c4TNoVckQFZI3qSqJqrv1iSjE786y9GBEAUdCjs/s1600/neato+lidar+data+and+power+compare.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="332" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhG-BR-zYTxL-BgrINisNboGNs7Aib9iEQ9Gnqg9ewBXTQij-dy3UsR9tUDx4sw9sJO8OQZsahXe-b1dRc-8iw_MO3Gy8dxDEn6uhvO2c4TNoVckQFZI3qSqJqrv1iSjE786y9GBEAUdCjs/s640/neato+lidar+data+and+power+compare.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
This is how data and power transferred to Lidar PCB. XV one has rotary sliding connections. And Botvac one has optical data feed and power transfer inductor coil (like wireless Qi charging). There is another coil inside Botvac which produces power and this coil on the Lidar base pcb is receiving power.<br />
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Here on the Botvac Lidar base pcb you can clearly see ir detector diode to receive data and ir led to send data back to Botvac. Also there is diode bridge with linear voltage regulator ic to convert AC power from coil to DC power needed for Lidar.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhytWPGsI0y5I6oayKjGK8Nn3s6rZU1DeHA-NjnIcXLyMGHY-AEUoMYg9C9jtkzFY3Tm5lFYyxIzXPvrNemPe_ZvwMP4vx1aWFAUf9XQkfWfaYtHr5QwEuwntPTeQODOP0kVb-uqhdTJ7Jc/s1600/neato+picolo+pcb+compare.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="436" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhytWPGsI0y5I6oayKjGK8Nn3s6rZU1DeHA-NjnIcXLyMGHY-AEUoMYg9C9jtkzFY3Tm5lFYyxIzXPvrNemPe_ZvwMP4vx1aWFAUf9XQkfWfaYtHr5QwEuwntPTeQODOP0kVb-uqhdTJ7Jc/s640/neato+picolo+pcb+compare.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
OK, here is a main part. I desoldered Lidar PCBs from bases. Take a closer look. What do you see? Yes, they are exactly the same. They have the same revision/model number and date. So they should be interchangeable. Botvac one has flux residue all over the place because I was retouching it like there was no tomorrow.<br />
They may have different firmware version though. I actually forgot to check that. Because when I soldered Lidar PCB from XV to the base PCB from Botvac and run tests, it just works. Here what the output looks like with working Lidar turret. No 8055 error codes. There was several 8035 errors, but it is because turret head cap has "legs" which cause Lidar to think that something is too close. But robot "knows" about turret cap and ignores that errors.<br />
<pre>getldsscan
AngleInDegrees,DistInMM,Intensity,ErrorCodeHEX
0,664,229,0
1,662,266,0
2,670,222,0
3,682,249,0
4,687,306,0
5,684,281,0
...
352,676,464,0
353,678,472,0
354,681,477,0
355,684,440,0
356,688,437,0
357,692,422,0
358,696,422,0
359,700,386,0
ROTATION_SPEED,5.12</pre>
<br />
And this is how bright laser diode should look like through IR webcam.<br />
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Much brighter than on the picture from part 1, isn't it?<br />
Botvac is fixed and works pretty fine since then.</div>
Anton Veretenenkohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18150583438255070310noreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6356425659873504094.post-43547930579699501552015-08-06T03:18:00.003+05:002015-09-29T00:43:35.210+05:00Neato Botvac Lidar Repair Part 1: IR Camera, Lidar Laser Driver Schematics, Debugging<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<br />
Here goes a bit of story how I get there, for those who bored of text jump straight to the juicy pictures.<br />
<br />
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
I acquired a broken Neato Botvac</h3>
robot vacuum on eBay recently. Seller has said that vacuum asks to turn power switch on, which is hidden in the dust bin compartment. But switching it on does not help and robot won't start cleaning. Otherwise it looks in good condition. Ok, easy fix I thought.<br />
<br />
When I received my new robot I turned that hidden switch on and it helped, robot recognized that switch is in on position. I have not started vacuum cleaning that time but gone to clean robot itself first including filter. Next time I turn it on and it asks for that switch again, ok bad contacts perhaps. I flicked that switch couple dozen times and robot started to recognize it every time, fixed :) I do not know why that switch is there, is it some kind of battery kill/safety feature for transportation?<br />
<br />
Well, nothing left just to try cleaning procedure. I started it by pushing button with home icon, robot moved away from it's charging bay and started vacuum motor, Lidar spinnig and then brush motors. But it was doing nothing but stopping itself and respin all motors. Then it threw 4000 error to me. I tried several time and everything I've got is a bunch of 4k errors, 400x, 40xx errors. That errors means something wrong with Lidar unit. It can be motor which can not handle specific 5RPM or it can not "see" because of dirt on lens and so on.<br />
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<br />
<br />
That "hat" over Lidar unit is easily removable. So I removed it and cleaned lens and it does not help at all. Lidar was spinning fine though. Ok, not easy fix anymore :)<br />
<br />
Now to debugging. There is an USB port on the robot inside dust bin compartment alongside that mystery switch. It is like RS232 USB bridge, just a serial port you can talk to. No drivers needed (if you are on Linux for example). I used "GetLifeStatLog" command which is described in official <a href="http://www.neatorobotics.com/resources/programmersmanual_20140305.pdf" target="_blank">Neato Programmer's Manual</a>. But is does not work. Botvac is new series of vacuum robots made by <a href="http://www.neatorobotics.com/" target="_blank">Neato Robotics</a> and they removed some useful commands from it. This "GetLifeStatLog" could help me with Lidar debugging, but oh well we'll find another way.<br />
<br />
To make a long story short, I was getting the same output from Lidar unit as this guy at <a href="http://www.robotreviews.com/chat/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=18095" target="_blank">robotreviews.com</a>.<br />
<pre>TestMode On
SetLDSRotation On
GetLDSScan
AngleInDegrees,DistInMM,Intensity,ErrorCodeHEX
0,0,0,8055
1,0,0,8055
2,0,0,8055
3,0,0,8055
4,0,0,8055
... all the way to 359.</pre>
RPM was from 4.98 to 5.12 which is totally fine and correct. Basically this output means that Lidar can not "see" a thing. Either it is blocked lens, broken CMOS sensor, dead Laser diode or dead Laser Driver circuit, all sort of things. But at least Lidar unit can talk and respond to main system.<br />
<br />
Lens is clean, I can not "test" anything here. But I can test laser. Lidar laser diode is an IR laser diode. But it is not just regular IR diode which you have in your tv remotes. Regular remotes has 930-950nm wavelength IR diodes and you can "see" them just by looking through your phone's camera for example, try it. But Lidar unit has 785nm wavelength IR which you can not see good enough through that camera. I want clearly see if laser works or not.<br />
<br />
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
<b>Let's make IR sensitive camera</b></h3>
from a regular webcam. Regular cameras has IR filter in front of it's sensor, we need to remove it to make it more sensitive to lower wavelength. I used a laptop webcam module for this purpose, it's cheap HD, it's USB and it's easy to remove IR filter from. Also I can change focus range, more on that later. Sorry for the pictures quality, my normal camera was busy on another installation. This is how it looks.<br />
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I already soldered USB wire. Camera suppose to work with 3.3v power. But it works ok with 5v supplied from USB too.<br />
You need to unscrew lens from the camera. There is a microphone in the middle and camera to the right. Lens is adjusted for infinity focus and glued in place. Just scrape glue off and unscrew lens. Then flip it upside down.<br />
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On the bottom you can see IR filter glass. You need to remove it to make camera more sensitive to IR wavelength. This filter is glued to the lens housing, just pry it with something sharp and remove. Mine filter was broken in process.<br />
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Now you need to screw lens back to the webcam and adjust focus to infinity. Basically connect it to the PC and keep screwing lens until object in the far is in focus. But you can also adjust focus so you can use it as inspection microscope or taking macro photos, but quality is obviously bad, you need much more light that I had. This is silicone die inside 5050 RGB leds with built-in driver IC (WS2812 and APA102C)<br />
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QFN32 soldering inspection on home made pcb.<br />
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<h3>
<b>Debugging</b></h3>
<div>
So when I've taken pictures of lidar working I could not see laser beam at all. Laser was not working at all. All I could see is IR optical data connection between rotating lidar head and base unit (light in the middle of rotating head). I will use black and white pictures due to quality.</div>
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Seems something wrong with IR laser driver or laser diode itself. I disassembled Lidar unit and reversed laser driver to schematics. It maybe a bit wrong, but mostly correct.</div>
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<div>
It's a bit hard to identify sot-23 transistors and mosfets. So the laser diode driver has 3 controls and 2 feedbacks. There is power on signal to turn power on to the laser diode and driver unit. This signal is constantly on when lidar start spinning. There is also constant PWM signal it also constant when lidar head spinning. And there is some kind of modulation, there are 2 types of pulses modulation. Botvac change this modulation each time lidar start spinning, so next time you get second modulation type. Also this can be laser diode constant current control or it is shared with constant PWM signal.</div>
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I disconnected laser diode and tested it with power supply.</div>
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It was kind of working. That means driver circuit is dead. I tested Q2 and Q1 and they were dead I replaced them with similar parts. I also shunt Q3, there are jumper pads on the driver pcb. And a result was not that great. Laser diode was working but it was not producing much light than it should.</div>
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You can see it's barely visible at all. Then I made a small pcb with 2 color leds and attached it to driver pcb on the spinning lidar head to check control signals. That's how I know there are PWM and modulation.</div>
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You can see PWM and modulation here.</div>
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All signals seems OK, but laser diode is dim. I think it was damaged when transistors were blown. The only fix is to replace lidar unit now, but I could not find Botvac unit available for sale nor laser diodes available. There is difference between Botvac and XV series lidar heads. XV uses sliding mechanical contacts for data connection between lidar spinning head and the base. But Botvac uses optical data connection.</div>
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Let's finally repair it in the second part: <a href="http://blog.avrnoob.com/2015/09/neato-botvac-lidar-repair-part-2-lidar.html" target="_blank">Neato Botvac Lidar Repair Part 2: Lidar PCB Replacement</a></div>
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Anton Veretenenkohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18150583438255070310noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6356425659873504094.post-86400682476553563272015-02-07T04:19:00.001+05:002015-08-06T00:02:50.930+05:00Oaxis InkCase for iPhone and Note II Teardown<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Today I'm going to teardown a pair of Oaxis InkCase thingies. It is a protective case for your phone which has a second screen and the screen is eInk type screen, black and white. This type of screens used for eBook readers like Amazon Kindle. So in theory this "case" should work much longer than your phone on it's battery. A case connects to your phone through Bluetooth 2.0 for N2 and through Bluetooth BLE for i5.<br />
I received these units for beta test in Jan 2014 and found them unusable at that time. Especially N2 case which was chewing batteries like crazy, it would not hold a day without recharging. Also often loosing connection without being able to reconnect without disabling and re-enabling bluetooth first. So I wrote it all to the guys at Oaxis and put units away.<br />
A little tip on how it works. It's very simple. Phone just sends a single image to the case through bluetooth, that's all. All the image compositing done in the phone's app.<br />
Now I see they are released new <a href="http://www.oaxis.com/product_detail.php?id=16" target="_blank">InkCase Plus</a> model which is designed to fit to almost any android phone.<br />
Enough waffle, let's tear it down starting with N2 model.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAPBil80kK8NIYo8DvQHf11wouK5PLRoCDRlqcC1DlCF-gBT9hiPijkkaK0zk81qKvVK0HknDmth_k99CLnYJBJeiT296j1Y1YztXynRgy4r62aJIYBnSCLtEwENli7_vSVie50x20HDeE/s1600/samsung_front.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="418" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAPBil80kK8NIYo8DvQHf11wouK5PLRoCDRlqcC1DlCF-gBT9hiPijkkaK0zk81qKvVK0HknDmth_k99CLnYJBJeiT296j1Y1YztXynRgy4r62aJIYBnSCLtEwENli7_vSVie50x20HDeE/s1600/samsung_front.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
So basically it is just a refitted eBook reader. It has 4 buttons, left, right, select and hidden reset. You can switch to previous images that phone sent. Images in this case is screen updates, like weather, pictures and so on. There is no processing on this device except showing images.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-tbv7XWu0SuktmbKK93b-Riikxf3eY1FBpwJFG4XStgvSoE_BZgFT5ptMEy8zsyb-Aqv35aS-aKFhpH71iuu2U2Qs987YUqdIpwRAd6ux_hf0WHL3ZT_zt6QebMz8GEIARB7sVh7Id4x8/s1600/samsung_back.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="410" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-tbv7XWu0SuktmbKK93b-Riikxf3eY1FBpwJFG4XStgvSoE_BZgFT5ptMEy8zsyb-Aqv35aS-aKFhpH71iuu2U2Qs987YUqdIpwRAd6ux_hf0WHL3ZT_zt6QebMz8GEIARB7sVh7Id4x8/s1600/samsung_back.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
Back side made of smooth plastic with will not scratch your phone.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZPngPp7ECxAM3JNBPAIWz4MShjy-kDI1BX1DnnEqEQ6LhhFaOU339ElsNBQjYuVQR5tsYGDLYKvqeyy_DXFL3ZBAQ02eDfI4BYtt8Cm9t5Y4t3aUdxeyeXKZuXNgEFY6MhoDZGNpKKAe2/s1600/samsung_inside_overview.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZPngPp7ECxAM3JNBPAIWz4MShjy-kDI1BX1DnnEqEQ6LhhFaOU339ElsNBQjYuVQR5tsYGDLYKvqeyy_DXFL3ZBAQ02eDfI4BYtt8Cm9t5Y4t3aUdxeyeXKZuXNgEFY6MhoDZGNpKKAe2/s1600/samsung_inside_overview.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
As you can see, inside it has a generic eBook SoC Allwinner F1 E200 and supporting circuitry. Also they added bluetooth in the corner. 820mAh battery. So this is it for N2. Nothing exiting, right?<br />
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Next i5 model.<br />
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Again, back is made of very smooth plastic. Take a peek inside.<br />
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Battery is half capacity of N2 model 460mAh. But this case is using BLE which is much lower power than Bluetooth 2.0.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh78_Bmdp69tIzKpt1Uo9fzWW-TbVwSOIBNxOg-jgXelfEAKhQ8zjE19Bj58kybcSlGSNVOVt5Ukvo1jXYGSpPQpwYseAUqchXJh2dlg4xKwL5kcCYlGrzv7NtCKhLCcq4v6GNIsbba1-eR/s1600/iphone_pcb.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh78_Bmdp69tIzKpt1Uo9fzWW-TbVwSOIBNxOg-jgXelfEAKhQ8zjE19Bj58kybcSlGSNVOVt5Ukvo1jXYGSpPQpwYseAUqchXJh2dlg4xKwL5kcCYlGrzv7NtCKhLCcq4v6GNIsbba1-eR/s1600/iphone_pcb.jpg" width="472" /></a></div>
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Ok, the circuit is completely different to N2. This one has a <a href="http://www.rock-chips.com/a/en/products/RK28_Series/2013/0730/331.html" target="_blank">Rockchip RK2818</a> SoC which used in low-end android phones. Also to note, i5 model has only one single button.<br />
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While I was playing with i5 disassembling it and reassembling, trying to charge a battery etc. I somehow entered into a recovery mode. And what do you know, this thing has an actual Android OS inside. So iPhone has a protective case which has Android in it :)<br />
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Anton Veretenenkohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18150583438255070310noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6356425659873504094.post-52890653459335322232014-10-04T11:11:00.001+06:002014-10-04T11:11:10.231+06:00Let's make Wireless Gamepad / Controller for Famicom / NES Part 3: Schematics and PCB design<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Here goes schematics and pcb for transmitter which will be is installed inside a controller shell.<br />
Battery charging current set to ~200mA. There are 3 leds. Red(Orange) is for charging indication. One green for charging end indication and second green is for debug indications. There are 4 smd connections. +5v input for charging. Battery connection. SBW for programming. And controller pcb wires connections.<br />
PCB is doublesided with 22x27mm size. PCB and parts footprints are designed to be hand soldered.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOJ_9e993QWhOaQlHjTWGuHp-zhH-y73qZAve7whjJlEiyGmHm4fXvLA3kcfD9tMIHVXk22bflG-9xGRUcnhyKLuyJdonYYZK978MzKzdb2vjaZr8qRIgkshQiIpokib2CX72WA7tgfBjr/s1600/transmitter+sch.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOJ_9e993QWhOaQlHjTWGuHp-zhH-y73qZAve7whjJlEiyGmHm4fXvLA3kcfD9tMIHVXk22bflG-9xGRUcnhyKLuyJdonYYZK978MzKzdb2vjaZr8qRIgkshQiIpokib2CX72WA7tgfBjr/s1600/transmitter+sch.png" height="640" width="635" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0mFXxSxcL8S0huO353Z3fBrKg0L-dTZsvmCxt6G7clw7w2c0xpahRGVstTJsmWHXQvVT6TtGarfMHqLohpJS-sDQHFMPi2sArrPbfghj2DUCT8qHfQXE0TLEL4Tfc2mAgJTZdIorYAzoI/s1600/transmitter+pcb.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0mFXxSxcL8S0huO353Z3fBrKg0L-dTZsvmCxt6G7clw7w2c0xpahRGVstTJsmWHXQvVT6TtGarfMHqLohpJS-sDQHFMPi2sArrPbfghj2DUCT8qHfQXE0TLEL4Tfc2mAgJTZdIorYAzoI/s1600/transmitter+pcb.png" height="400" width="330" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
And schematics and pcb for receiver module which will be installed inside NES / Famicom or soldered to the original 7-pin or Famiclone 9-pin (or 14-pin) controller plug for plug-and-play. As I said this receiver will emulate original controller interface, so it's just ready to go. PCB also has the same smd connections for power in, SBW and controller interface. And green led for debug indications. Also to note, NES / Famicom has 5v controller interface signals but used MCU can handle 3.3v only so I used voltage dividers to limit maximum signal voltage and current.<br />
Receiver has slightly bigger PCB with 22.6x27mm size.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0Kax0HswLhVie-rP9BnhZ5m2lZWYSHWsetNtWq0BiMbzB7K0edCMWF2ITO2HEwNkvRlnqB3ltVul-P1F8_BuqP8AG2FbPXgRxnu41b3G-00i6VWYveecVifYu2waq5vVYoYOuqsL7WLki/s1600/receiver+sch.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0Kax0HswLhVie-rP9BnhZ5m2lZWYSHWsetNtWq0BiMbzB7K0edCMWF2ITO2HEwNkvRlnqB3ltVul-P1F8_BuqP8AG2FbPXgRxnu41b3G-00i6VWYveecVifYu2waq5vVYoYOuqsL7WLki/s1600/receiver+sch.png" height="640" width="580" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8FMntsIOIeJWuxv1aUzwEvDlWaNKN-52vgNWq1uZNWdbo6Pfp-bVOlfIwozrmmwlkJA-EBbityTMcUbT6oApR01XZRSaBgeq45Nveg8Ax7Ip1noD_3GtKi2aRVXgx7DyAgnBfbL4Qk9oK/s1600/receiver+pcb.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8FMntsIOIeJWuxv1aUzwEvDlWaNKN-52vgNWq1uZNWdbo6Pfp-bVOlfIwozrmmwlkJA-EBbityTMcUbT6oApR01XZRSaBgeq45Nveg8Ax7Ip1noD_3GtKi2aRVXgx7DyAgnBfbL4Qk9oK/s1600/receiver+pcb.png" height="400" width="330" /></a></div>
<br />
For the next part I will manufacture transmitter and receiver pcbs at home and solder parts on. Also will try to fit it inside a controller shell with battery. And will use receiver pcb with Famiclone console for POC.</div>
Anton Veretenenkohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18150583438255070310noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6356425659873504094.post-3535330904372346242014-08-19T22:08:00.003+06:002015-02-07T04:25:14.978+05:00Let's make Wireless Gamepad / Controller for Famicom / NES Part 2: Hardware<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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What hardware do I need to get this project done faster? I need 2.4Ghz transceiver module which I can connect microcontroller to. The same module for a gamepad and receiver. I need very small and thin module to fit inside a gamepad case.<br />
I thought to use ever popular module with NRF24L01 transceiver ic. But I don't have small one, one with 8 2.54mm pin connector is huge and will never fit inside a gamepad.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2Czeiw-vBMVLoebwEYfUb44P61DJWT2dyIUcivU-eR5o1Scd7YRZs1Dxe5Mye1VXOxajvLIdgOjfdLAp0XFvUuyDK0BMS0xpOss5zsgOiw4EzdAfxG0SAFoPi_lbOi6bNCTmY1zY889s6/s1600/RF-2400-NANO-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2Czeiw-vBMVLoebwEYfUb44P61DJWT2dyIUcivU-eR5o1Scd7YRZs1Dxe5Mye1VXOxajvLIdgOjfdLAp0XFvUuyDK0BMS0xpOss5zsgOiw4EzdAfxG0SAFoPi_lbOi6bNCTmY1zY889s6/s1600/RF-2400-NANO-1.jpg" height="150" width="200" /></a></div>
But I do have really small module with NRF24L01 clone ic called BK2421 (made by BEKEN). Module called RF-2400-NANO made by <a href="http://www.inhaos.com/product_info.php?products_id=57" target="_blank">INHAOS Technology Co.</a> This will fit nicely. It has the same configuration registers, but has 2 register banks. Second bank is only to configure BK2421 ic.<br />
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<br />
<br />
OK. Now I need a microcontroller to make it all work. I have 2 spare <a href="http://www.ti.com/product/msp430g2452" target="_blank">MSP430G2452</a> in VQFN package. This is enough to make proof of concept.<br />
<br />
Also I need a battery for gamepad, lithium rechargeable battery. I will use <a href="http://www.microchip.com/wwwproducts/Devices.aspx?dDocName=en024903" target="_blank">MCP73831/2</a> charging ic from Microchip to charge this battery from USB.<br />
<br />
In the next part I'll make schematics for transmitter and receiver modules.</div>
Anton Veretenenkohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18150583438255070310noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6356425659873504094.post-77341984020130392712014-08-10T02:58:00.003+06:002014-08-10T02:58:48.648+06:00Let's make Wireless Gamepad / Controller for Famicom / NES Part 1<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
I'm slowly restoring good old Famicom console.<br />
It was in partly working condition. Some games was able to show title screen but not start, or not start at all with grey screen. This was hard to find fault. But I managed to fix it, it was one of the address lines trace broken in the inner pcb layer. Added one wire and got it working.<br />
<br />
Now to the topic.<br />
Who need wires this days right? Less wires is better always. So I decided to design and make a mod for stock Famicom controllers to make them wireless.<br />
Famicom has official wireless controllers but they were using crappy IR and you need to point it to console every time. I want to make RF wireless controllers using that fancy 2.4GHz ISM band.<br />
<br />
I'll make a prototype for a newage Famiclone console to test things out (chinese D99 model, single chip clone).<br />
This projects has two sub-projects. First one is for transmitter which will be inside Famicom controller with battery and USB charger. Second one is for receiver, prototype will use Famiclone controller port (Famiclone has removable controllers), you just plug in receiver or plug in wired controller.<br />
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Famicom controller has pretty simple schematics. It's a single shift-register parallel input, serial output and 8 pull-up resisters. It can use HEF4021B ic or similar. Famiclone controller uses black blob ic, which is unknown, it's the same shift register but with built-in pull-up resistors.<br />
Stock controller schematics should look like this:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfd_phEAXzh40lL6bqNNTeRQE7wn0IcVppHgyCw_NHlB_bB-AwHz3nmR4KBoZwEXiGRHvu_jLp9bP9LvgrvHaxL24PnfNKpBYCbt2ZvZtQu_QLLxYKE6AepI-VtIluIr3Z0HZvxkWSygfS/s1600/famicom+gamepad+schematics.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfd_phEAXzh40lL6bqNNTeRQE7wn0IcVppHgyCw_NHlB_bB-AwHz3nmR4KBoZwEXiGRHvu_jLp9bP9LvgrvHaxL24PnfNKpBYCbt2ZvZtQu_QLLxYKE6AepI-VtIluIr3Z0HZvxkWSygfS/s1600/famicom+gamepad+schematics.png" height="326" width="640" /></a></div>
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To make a transmitter I need to "read buttons" like a console, pack it into a packet and send it to receiver. To make receiver "plug and play" it should emulate controller. When packed received and when console read buttons it will respond as controller.</div>
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In the next part I will select hardware for transmitter and receiver.</div>
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Anton Veretenenkohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18150583438255070310noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6356425659873504094.post-20038333667055672362014-07-09T04:12:00.000+06:002014-07-09T04:12:06.493+06:00GBAmp2s at kitsch-bent.com<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Great news for US GameBoy (Color) loud sound fans :)<br />
GBAmp<sub>2s</sub> will be available at <a href="http://store.kitsch-bent.com/product/gbamp" target="_blank">kitsch-bent.com</a> soon. Faster shipping for you.</div>
Anton Veretenenkohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18150583438255070310noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6356425659873504094.post-20816082069843335082014-06-06T05:39:00.000+06:002014-06-06T05:39:36.058+06:00Handheld Famicom / NES Clone Teardown<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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So there are numerous Famicom / NES clones, some of them are portable handheld versions.<br />
Let's see what's inside one of them. This one has a cartridge slot along with "many" built-in games.<br />
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<a href="http://www.anrdoezrs.net/click-7334861-10577840?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.aliexpress.com%2Fwholesale%3FisFreeShip%3Dy%26shipCountry%3Dus%26isAtmOnline%3Dn%26cv%3D10577840%26SortType%3Dprice_asc%26SearchText%3Dportable%20video%20game%20console%26cn%3Dnull%26CatId%3D0%26initiative_id%3DSB_20131121143547%26tp1%3Dnull%26tracelog%3Dnull%26src%3Dale%26isRtl%3Dyes%26af%3Dcj_1%26vd%3D30" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmvNfieTmwygdDrEQSd74fo0HKbcXuPyM2jAtwORh3SR8LFvsHmmZIYnvkQi7eMVnkQQvnrmyGAa05mu8BtQkdwCqfTOA0uSLcEkIvygJcmHdVa6c1PTuiMJvr-UsY8CT4XsDdWaiGZ_Sw/s1600/outside.jpg" height="287" width="400" /></a></div>
It has li-ion battery, usb charge cable and tv out cable included, so you can actually play it on tv. But it lacks of second controller and does not have a select button. In some games you can not select "continue" because you do not have select button :)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixdYSZYnIUPED_q7jlC2Yw-4KYvdUyaTsO_kD-uNtYZrO2KPas5o-a0OTaIi7SphEcomZ0pY3PgRzEDayCa0DjtHtQ5GtlxzxpHdaiO-k3TgTryT_YhMFsl-ofPWf3z1LoSUu7Ep_9lXJS/s1600/man+pcb+top.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixdYSZYnIUPED_q7jlC2Yw-4KYvdUyaTsO_kD-uNtYZrO2KPas5o-a0OTaIi7SphEcomZ0pY3PgRzEDayCa0DjtHtQ5GtlxzxpHdaiO-k3TgTryT_YhMFsl-ofPWf3z1LoSUu7Ep_9lXJS/s1600/man+pcb+top.jpg" height="350" width="640" /></a></div>
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Single pcb design. LCD is not 4:3 but image does not look stretched.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZOVbe9z2pxuw9StFNO0CvKOh7gv6aXp9B_5qTvAFLiSskUoClogOQAHUl959ikppQm-04U_j2HUeCg0lD2KcORtEOWiSkx0Ck2iLFCwT9KTR1tuxm5KRpxx0mV3k3m1odCAkyynTeXg9r/s1600/man+pcb+top+blob.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZOVbe9z2pxuw9StFNO0CvKOh7gv6aXp9B_5qTvAFLiSskUoClogOQAHUl959ikppQm-04U_j2HUeCg0lD2KcORtEOWiSkx0Ck2iLFCwT9KTR1tuxm5KRpxx0mV3k3m1odCAkyynTeXg9r/s1600/man+pcb+top+blob.jpg" height="374" width="640" /></a></div>
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This black blob is the main CPU+PPU chip, unknown.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM_Tyt-jytFsN1vmaVc0xct57WPep3JHGiN5CyJlI8JQIlZTg8vuP_bmtzACxd6_iqD7evPEZRBpP0eptEJ9S3uycGMriY2g4XAyseFFn7scVBsBrjtlEfW5YC-MK1Xtol81MtkGVGolVz/s1600/man+pcb+bottom.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM_Tyt-jytFsN1vmaVc0xct57WPep3JHGiN5CyJlI8JQIlZTg8vuP_bmtzACxd6_iqD7evPEZRBpP0eptEJ9S3uycGMriY2g4XAyseFFn7scVBsBrjtlEfW5YC-MK1Xtol81MtkGVGolVz/s1600/man+pcb+bottom.jpg" height="368" width="640" /></a></div>
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Edge connector for cartridge on the back. USB battery charging circuit. Main crystal. And there is 16Mbit CMOS flash where built-in roms are stored. This pcb can accept flash in different packages. 3 color wires are soldered by me, it's for speaker and battery connector, old wires were rusty with failed soldering job.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjezcDqs-CKmTRCuGgiRiAz7DmQKF7KTtb_CNg9qSO5lCPOizWE0u7ohtAbIX0-VTFXroLRw0qI4r8FTNm8m7u9rDworLOEj5IeHR4H7Dm5w-jHtc7XsVSUYZ8bYj9VQEtO4SqNoEsX0PvJ/s1600/cartridge+compare+with+gb.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjezcDqs-CKmTRCuGgiRiAz7DmQKF7KTtb_CNg9qSO5lCPOizWE0u7ohtAbIX0-VTFXroLRw0qI4r8FTNm8m7u9rDworLOEj5IeHR4H7Dm5w-jHtc7XsVSUYZ8bYj9VQEtO4SqNoEsX0PvJ/s1600/cartridge+compare+with+gb.jpg" height="380" width="640" /></a></div>
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This is to compare cartridge size with GameBoy cartridge, very small.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPrvTn2sbr1ZdB8xwUZ5EjcakoIig4fyhYrVUttlpz8-AOQeW-PPJSTe197w_WR_RtTUXGHssZeE_BMJeAOiIKyNjH3x_bZystHN518zgpPEKyvFrLhcyfeKZZu9JH5WpwsjGxDP8UP9LG/s1600/cartridge+pcb.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPrvTn2sbr1ZdB8xwUZ5EjcakoIig4fyhYrVUttlpz8-AOQeW-PPJSTe197w_WR_RtTUXGHssZeE_BMJeAOiIKyNjH3x_bZystHN518zgpPEKyvFrLhcyfeKZZu9JH5WpwsjGxDP8UP9LG/s1600/cartridge+pcb.jpg" height="482" width="640" /></a></div>
Inside there is the same 16Mbit CMOS flash chip without any fancy mapper chips. It just replaces a built-in flash when inserted.</div>
Anton Veretenenkohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18150583438255070310noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6356425659873504094.post-3947268357479946492014-05-20T11:53:00.000+06:002014-05-20T11:53:11.816+06:00GBAmp2 wiring guide for DMG-001 console<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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GBAmp<sub>2s</sub> wiring guide for DMG-001 classic Nintendo console is ready and available on <a href="http://veretenenko.ru/anton/gbamp/" target="_blank">GBAmp website</a>.</div>
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Basicly it's this picture only :)</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwK1KM8Q7RblC7gSt2vceGNhX3RhpKQamnvjXDHH5cFav3DUsHSsQYXCEBCQQeGYlFIpKTYwgjdAHGf4vKSOjzCA2LJ5GaqK9H7pOLmX-BEyYPgGDTj5YNlMhdnGLWOQOGh5FQrCWYcK24/s1600/dmg-wires.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwK1KM8Q7RblC7gSt2vceGNhX3RhpKQamnvjXDHH5cFav3DUsHSsQYXCEBCQQeGYlFIpKTYwgjdAHGf4vKSOjzCA2LJ5GaqK9H7pOLmX-BEyYPgGDTj5YNlMhdnGLWOQOGh5FQrCWYcK24/s1600/dmg-wires.jpg" height="288" width="640" /></a></div>
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Anton Veretenenkohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18150583438255070310noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6356425659873504094.post-22809899576367691132014-05-02T02:03:00.001+06:002015-02-24T05:06:24.459+05:00Let's quickly repair Nintendo 3DS shuts off with popping sound when fully opened, LCD Flat Flex Repair<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Ok, so I recently got this heavily used Nintendo 3DS which was not turning on fully. Blue light comes on then it makes popping sound with a little backlight flash and shuts off.<br />
I tore down it into pieces while searching for faults. Found broken touch screen flat flex cable.<br />
Also I found flat flex (ribbon) cable with some traces been broken in the top half of the 3DS and that was the culprit of popping sound and shut off.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhciDPFZavOVIg4ssGrfQ5YGWNLA3HiCNIZiW-4ORa6S9vDS48oXlC4wogWH2YHK4__0x4NClch-Cg8A43IxB3vGy-Z94VK0zH9T_2jefAYT6aFF1-p_w17CPyAuRJRdwXyLlxjnbJzgmue/s1600/flex+rip.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhciDPFZavOVIg4ssGrfQ5YGWNLA3HiCNIZiW-4ORa6S9vDS48oXlC4wogWH2YHK4__0x4NClch-Cg8A43IxB3vGy-Z94VK0zH9T_2jefAYT6aFF1-p_w17CPyAuRJRdwXyLlxjnbJzgmue/s1600/flex+rip.jpg" height="499" width="640" /></a></div>
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This flat flex (ribbon) is connecting top screen backlight, 3D control ? and speakers. Any fail in the backlight circuits of top or bottom screen and 3DS will shut off with popping sound.</div>
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So it's easy to fix, just order a replacement cable. No way :)</div>
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Checked with multimeter and found there are only 2 traces broken.</div>
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I took some hair thin enameled wires. I then scraped off flat flex (ribbon) traces to copper at the connector side and soldered wires there.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-1S7SypTV7TgBu13wqSolcT69gOWK3qd5kmj8UMvbeXts3RzNtwanDgqQZpKmWbvpK5-JxNWOEEooLi2Xr6gCS-GlBidYQr3SUUhWQGothzwJmSlbBFX5AsUUcdw_8zFDPLnXfWQkstBh/s1600/flex+scraped+and+soldered.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-1S7SypTV7TgBu13wqSolcT69gOWK3qd5kmj8UMvbeXts3RzNtwanDgqQZpKmWbvpK5-JxNWOEEooLi2Xr6gCS-GlBidYQr3SUUhWQGothzwJmSlbBFX5AsUUcdw_8zFDPLnXfWQkstBh/s1600/flex+scraped+and+soldered.jpg" height="424" width="640" /></a></div>
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Also soldered these wires to connector on lcd side.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh301kyRxF6dCke0sDjnsE1CMNvrjItSxKr1ffVQRaps1rBmrEvZ_Z3Y9lCAATNX3aQzqZGzJL5l8D1nU4SFThT3UhhtM4-P790pKI8uXod8S5tblhZuuYUE-KOm2Iw-V1jwAuOADmwrsiT/s1600/flex+soldered+to+connector.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh301kyRxF6dCke0sDjnsE1CMNvrjItSxKr1ffVQRaps1rBmrEvZ_Z3Y9lCAATNX3aQzqZGzJL5l8D1nU4SFThT3UhhtM4-P790pKI8uXod8S5tblhZuuYUE-KOm2Iw-V1jwAuOADmwrsiT/s1600/flex+soldered+to+connector.jpg" height="424" width="640" /></a></div>
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And it works :)</div>
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I then glued wires to the flat flex cable with tape.</div>
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Putting all that flat flex (ribbon) cables back through the hinge was huge pain though. </div>
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Anton Veretenenkohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18150583438255070310noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6356425659873504094.post-6734525508510867952014-03-25T03:15:00.001+06:002014-04-05T06:59:40.264+06:00UNI-T UT61E RS232 serial interface cable to USB diy mod<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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I'm using my <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s/?_encoding=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&linkCode=ur2&pageMinusResults=1&suo=1395687553543&tag=electrodiyhob-20&url=search-alias%3Daps#/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=de-9%20to%20usb&sprefix=de-9+to%2Caps&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Ade-9%20to%20usb&sepatfbtf=true&tc=1395687557388" target="_blank">UT61E</a> a lot. One great feature it has is that it can send data to pc for data logging. And it has interface cable included in the box with no additional cost. But the cable is RS232C compatible using DE-9 connector and +/-12V logic levels.<br />
Do you have DE-9 connector on your laptop? I don't :) You obviously can use that <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s/?_encoding=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&linkCode=ur2&pageMinusResults=1&suo=1395687553543&tag=electrodiyhob-20&url=search-alias%3Daps#/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=de-9%20to%20usb&sprefix=de-9+to%2Caps&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Ade-9%20to%20usb&sepatfbtf=true&tc=1395687557388" target="_blank">RS232 to USD Adapter</a> cables, but DIY guy can make his own cable, right? Add bluetooth too perhaps?<br />
Let's take a closer look at the supplied RS232C cable:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGxvHPUIZQ8Cu8zXwfDvLqUr6D_XLrR3iyb_tnSW1ny3OUpXSYlB1LRzMNLZTMPT7V7leF9qPFcMzkSrJgezH1rXLBTLP7qwetpql2jlHR7rR-uaV8oyIL57srkhGZifxJ0tkOPxx-L_BU/s1600/cable+original.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGxvHPUIZQ8Cu8zXwfDvLqUr6D_XLrR3iyb_tnSW1ny3OUpXSYlB1LRzMNLZTMPT7V7leF9qPFcMzkSrJgezH1rXLBTLP7qwetpql2jlHR7rR-uaV8oyIL57srkhGZifxJ0tkOPxx-L_BU/s1600/cable+original.jpg" height="362" width="640" /></a></div>
From the first look it has only one working "eye". Which means there is no connection from PC to the meter, easier to hack then.<br />
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What's inside:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgO5eQ2RWWgAs7v2sOF7Sbs3gmRjGvIMRVyCHWO-uQ4weNzMi2TCymfcMZuUKr4ZBwWLU_v0w-V_9GvJdcDp-0nLdLZgNZlYihPD1HcSDEBb0g0AqWNOvg4JE4pOaAVyO7RWvWpatR0D95D/s1600/pcb_front.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgO5eQ2RWWgAs7v2sOF7Sbs3gmRjGvIMRVyCHWO-uQ4weNzMi2TCymfcMZuUKr4ZBwWLU_v0w-V_9GvJdcDp-0nLdLZgNZlYihPD1HcSDEBb0g0AqWNOvg4JE4pOaAVyO7RWvWpatR0D95D/s1600/pcb_front.jpg" height="293" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitE22xem65WtaMJOuJ-cbM58iZXozS0bhhNcEeCtlsdqWcf7BP0gny0OkSn1FYjvHWvuFTcp0ThaVmq4EJqseUdh2AzOfwO264AkYLq4hvOwPqoicAriMvsDM85xQVoxmAaaC0vARFJHDJ/s1600/pcb_back.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; margin-top: -279px;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitE22xem65WtaMJOuJ-cbM58iZXozS0bhhNcEeCtlsdqWcf7BP0gny0OkSn1FYjvHWvuFTcp0ThaVmq4EJqseUdh2AzOfwO264AkYLq4hvOwPqoicAriMvsDM85xQVoxmAaaC0vARFJHDJ/s1600/pcb_back.jpg" height="266" width="320" /></a></div>
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Definitely only one RX IR sensor diode used, TX circuitry is not populated.<br />
Here is a schematics I reversed from the pcb:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNm4FOpLfTGClQ_4fI75nCell0-1vF41MNQv1vuIOFIrQNsJ7M7Z_Us4Tc6o4W64WmPkPL1gGh-k7Qh_iYGfQ44aTpv5-cvMRidWDlOkpYjptPSEs6IDLVLmGUqLrLTP1dPdnJhLKv6aQb/s1600/pcb_sch.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNm4FOpLfTGClQ_4fI75nCell0-1vF41MNQv1vuIOFIrQNsJ7M7Z_Us4Tc6o4W64WmPkPL1gGh-k7Qh_iYGfQ44aTpv5-cvMRidWDlOkpYjptPSEs6IDLVLmGUqLrLTP1dPdnJhLKv6aQb/s1600/pcb_sch.png" height="400" width="357" /></a></div>
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This thing pulls up RX line when IR diode senses light from the meter. UT61E sends inverted serial signal to its IR led.<br />
There is a bit of space inside this sensor box. And I need to fit a circuit inside, which senses IR light and pulls down RX line from 3.3V to Ground. This is classic UART serial interface.<br />
Unsolder everything from the pcb except IR sensor diode.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2YDMsqURKr1mCfxN3T5OXH8A3b8MjcvGyVMzBbwvipj8hwlgAkA-hge3X-7rNzEMutkoUu4RL25wd3xbN071OpNiAJ0Dnc-Oq4iDkHIqoW4-TRB3gScC6eIgcxLSsmMdwEroegf-ZbaaJ/s1600/pcb_clean.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2YDMsqURKr1mCfxN3T5OXH8A3b8MjcvGyVMzBbwvipj8hwlgAkA-hge3X-7rNzEMutkoUu4RL25wd3xbN071OpNiAJ0Dnc-Oq4iDkHIqoW4-TRB3gScC6eIgcxLSsmMdwEroegf-ZbaaJ/s1600/pcb_clean.jpg" height="406" width="640" /></a></div>
This is new schematics using 2 n-channel mosfets, any general purporse mosfets will do. I used 2N7000.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNkw5Yn66abbxgcEe4gkD3J97WgKczLRKiGOZTBo4MaYgZDk2ZG_0zNhk1k7IZrXGAlV3PBaN5pIT1XR6YmfzRkITSDXnKsgN9_qPzIDLTCciLuAvP1IYhvootY_szVnvOLIW10o7q5IBT/s1600/pcb_sch_mod_fix.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNkw5Yn66abbxgcEe4gkD3J97WgKczLRKiGOZTBo4MaYgZDk2ZG_0zNhk1k7IZrXGAlV3PBaN5pIT1XR6YmfzRkITSDXnKsgN9_qPzIDLTCciLuAvP1IYhvootY_szVnvOLIW10o7q5IBT/s1600/pcb_sch_mod_fix.png" height="400" width="328" /></a></div>
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R1 needs to be set lower than original because we are using 3.3V now and there is not enough juice to turn Q1 on fast enough with 4.7k.<br />
OK, then I made this piece of art:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqy9VywJ-y6ExFHiXo3MfGRo_56bXgiisFZujbDlLCpncibFBj7Tg9jPEU2Nxcq436WF3uETUUxhKqRk92ZyWSR71W9y-OsiXoOxkZIA5VX_onf4tR1C8FfvKWCPkyQVuDEKLtA0NbnAIA/s1600/pcb_new_1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqy9VywJ-y6ExFHiXo3MfGRo_56bXgiisFZujbDlLCpncibFBj7Tg9jPEU2Nxcq436WF3uETUUxhKqRk92ZyWSR71W9y-OsiXoOxkZIA5VX_onf4tR1C8FfvKWCPkyQVuDEKLtA0NbnAIA/s1600/pcb_new_1.jpg" height="207" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXpY-E1Ueis6g4g9IVtrFY4-ZxoXxL0WBn1fBxWTXLGx3T9nkcTD6-8Rf12fpELRcB1d4pV5ZlAs2bScdkrr6dXGY87JVgaG024_fZpb6UxdOI-Vbw7mTwm5q3PvkBWRXPCH9vKU3AvAEa/s1600/pcb_new_2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; margin-top: -220px;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXpY-E1Ueis6g4g9IVtrFY4-ZxoXxL0WBn1fBxWTXLGx3T9nkcTD6-8Rf12fpELRcB1d4pV5ZlAs2bScdkrr6dXGY87JVgaG024_fZpb6UxdOI-Vbw7mTwm5q3PvkBWRXPCH9vKU3AvAEa/s1600/pcb_new_2.jpg" height="196" width="320" /></a></div>
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This fits perfectly inside original enclosure. New cable needs only 3 wires: +3.3V, GND and RX, I cut the rest. You may be wondering why I call it RX, well this is how DE-9 was wired. RX means PC side RX pin.<br />
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At this stage you already can connect UT61E to the microcontroller or Arduino or anything else which understands 3.3V UART. But I started it as USB mod, so we continue.<br />
I have some <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s/?_encoding=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&linkCode=ur2&pageMinusResults=1&suo=1395686192667&tag=electrodiyhob-20&url=search-alias%3Daps#/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=cp2102&sprefix=cp210%2Caps&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Acp2102&sepatfbtf=true&tc=1395686196358" target="_blank">CP2102 Serial UART TTL USB converter</a>s laying around and this is enough for this mod. Just connect that 3 wires and there we go.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXb3T_CS8DjsB97b_EwHdFkxAo2-yVlBw1v9Tnpp78tXuLmrlkL7-E6O9c9aufZ1d1l5etANPEcCsMEIVcWDKEfwb8dLHjeXDHGQZ0wBmMcE3ESaUCRfigndhvdtazyYraGyFh-Q7S4pQp/s1600/cp2102.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXb3T_CS8DjsB97b_EwHdFkxAo2-yVlBw1v9Tnpp78tXuLmrlkL7-E6O9c9aufZ1d1l5etANPEcCsMEIVcWDKEfwb8dLHjeXDHGQZ0wBmMcE3ESaUCRfigndhvdtazyYraGyFh-Q7S4pQp/s1600/cp2102.jpg" height="278" width="640" /></a></div>
Female header used so I can disconnect CP2102 converter and use it anywhere else.<br />
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Raw output from the meter:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYVBa_iZz8zvtMNR_PPxsmBwj5PiuA73ofho6_VekeqeubX87q3ialQTMakIiFSfnSbZSd2srxB7Sl7P5WH9xyw143g6C5fBl4F4kcR3Eddos07GeTr3zisG1Mb6S0UCMPJUAJO2V1DHyC/s1600/screenshot.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYVBa_iZz8zvtMNR_PPxsmBwj5PiuA73ofho6_VekeqeubX87q3ialQTMakIiFSfnSbZSd2srxB7Sl7P5WH9xyw143g6C5fBl4F4kcR3Eddos07GeTr3zisG1Mb6S0UCMPJUAJO2V1DHyC/s1600/screenshot.jpg" /></a></div>
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Correct serial port settings for this meter are: <b>speed 19200, bits 7, stop 1, parity odd</b>.<br />
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That's it.<br />
But, there is more! You can even add a <b>Bluetooth</b> feature to this UT61E multimeter. It's easy as soldering 6 wires to some serial bluetooth module with this mod.<br />
<b>UT61E </b>with<b> Bluetooth</b>, sounds great! Interested?</div>
Anton Veretenenkohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18150583438255070310noreply@blogger.com20tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6356425659873504094.post-62075619934702321242014-03-02T00:07:00.000+06:002014-03-02T00:19:26.425+06:00Game Boy Micro battery upgrade<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<a href="http://www.amazon.com/s/?_encoding=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&field-keywords=oxy-003&linkCode=ur2&tag=electrodiyhob-20&url=search-alias%3Daps" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-top: 1em;" target="_blank"><img alt="" border="0" height="1" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=electrodiyhob-20&l=ur2&o=1" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" /><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd8mViB54TYCEnl0g2aI4vMZfhXQ9nkJRcgTcTtp_Br46HXhWk_8LeScVktIn6ChaXaeX6DAFFgFQmPnGDoYx-6OcFCVx5Y3imD4iVBuAzpNUmTabGs9PzWQl9lpiuXArxdLfxOaEucyfq/s1600/DSC_3189_c.jpg" height="225" width="400" /></a>Can you play your Game Boy Micro for several hours? I can't till now.<br />
This blog is all about diy, so let's make a new battery for it.<br />
In my region original battery cost a lot and I searched for similiar size lithium battery.<br />
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And found this 9v rechargable lithium battery.<br />
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<a href="http://www.amazon.com/s/?_encoding=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&linkCode=ur2&pageMinusResults=1&suo=1393693524802&tag=electrodiyhob-20&url=search-alias%3Daps#/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=9v%20lithium%20e3&sprefix=9v+lit%2Caps&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3A9v%20lithium%20e3&sepatfbtf=true&tc=1393693528009" target="_blank"><img alt="" border="0" height="1" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=electrodiyhob-20&l=ur2&o=1" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" /><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQdziX1KwbABbWjh_US_MiGwDOCRx8mGkrsMIYqwnFaKlS-SXMEahJ7vPWauLQJbWVG-FiLJf0zDB8KR-jbtNsyDQWXBsHeCyxT2SC8QLkP3NiL5uqgChK3eBXK_anrvoB0qOuM1OP0Hwg/s1600/DSC_3190_s.png" height="360" width="640" /></a></div>
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I thought there are 2 3.7v lithium cells in series inside and I was right. You can actually build two batteries for the price.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0IhD1YMv-SAkLQcJFyMM8sBOItJkxx-roM0sQymsvFA5n_GvotzFyJL9TJTeGk4vybCy0i9jMYVymXIhJGxY3HJeQLlM02wX_OLTulAfuMexSaYpol6IOs7rY19YtoOEdUn03-JPTrv9u/s1600/DSC_3192_s.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0IhD1YMv-SAkLQcJFyMM8sBOItJkxx-roM0sQymsvFA5n_GvotzFyJL9TJTeGk4vybCy0i9jMYVymXIhJGxY3HJeQLlM02wX_OLTulAfuMexSaYpol6IOs7rY19YtoOEdUn03-JPTrv9u/s1600/DSC_3192_s.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a></div>
Protection circuit inside which prevent deep discharge and overcharge.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm2EBp7bUOltGYaYUdoOVAzpHCnDF35_zt_OkU9SAUHiwMMjpR-J3AQ7yEj_gpuJHQSkuiNcg9D_vYnfCn6mGcfPjJctBBofxkYDVIspl0pmDAwnVBsSIPbRjEja_MspTt_DRAOUy20jf0/s1600/DSC_3194.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm2EBp7bUOltGYaYUdoOVAzpHCnDF35_zt_OkU9SAUHiwMMjpR-J3AQ7yEj_gpuJHQSkuiNcg9D_vYnfCn6mGcfPjJctBBofxkYDVIspl0pmDAwnVBsSIPbRjEja_MspTt_DRAOUy20jf0/s1600/DSC_3194.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a></div>
I cut out protection pcb and split battery cells.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-0u5E1zzWBD1paPnsqzf8-IGaoq_-8tzCYeKyzxvzxgH9e0i4PCYF6IDz8w1dQJfeYGvpmxV_GgHpnyAg52gd-OX6Y9AAUKYTLz-F6s9Uv67IaiDk7pc443WfUpWlFCeg14r3erO4D6MY/s1600/DSC_3195_s.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-0u5E1zzWBD1paPnsqzf8-IGaoq_-8tzCYeKyzxvzxgH9e0i4PCYF6IDz8w1dQJfeYGvpmxV_GgHpnyAg52gd-OX6Y9AAUKYTLz-F6s9Uv67IaiDk7pc443WfUpWlFCeg14r3erO4D6MY/s1600/DSC_3195_s.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a></div>
Then I unwrap original battery to compare old and new cell sizes.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK6Ccn_r1O-YNz9X9ykE4AgljfdW7X5V9896yFxCHRpSbzhEtbJsb0dqD5YgH-mssq5K1dJSTJRR8hzds1odVHsSr2kzFYDxA5WetjnC74BC5jqKxLUBiWbGkmdCsH75wMqJeGXzWmrZMZ/s1600/DSC_3199_c.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; margin-top: -198px;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK6Ccn_r1O-YNz9X9ykE4AgljfdW7X5V9896yFxCHRpSbzhEtbJsb0dqD5YgH-mssq5K1dJSTJRR8hzds1odVHsSr2kzFYDxA5WetjnC74BC5jqKxLUBiWbGkmdCsH75wMqJeGXzWmrZMZ/s1600/DSC_3199_c.jpg" height="180" width="320" /></a></div>
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Checking how it fits inside Game Boy Micro.<br />
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New cell is half mm thicker, but it's a no problem.<br />
Then I soldered wires from original battery and tested charging and playing.<br />
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I also added a sticker from original battery, so it looks almost original =)<br />
New cell has a bit more juice too. Works and chrages great, as expected. Battery cover sits ok.<br />
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Anton Veretenenkohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18150583438255070310noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6356425659873504094.post-63872945149223584172014-02-02T02:46:00.000+06:002014-02-02T02:46:23.324+06:00Gameboy Loud Sound mod for DMG-001<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
People are asking if this GBAmp<sub>2s</sub> mod pcb will work for original DMG-001 Gameboy.<br />
Yes it will, take a look:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT8VHlHSAEdDnHf3VNRgBqQRlzJ2ckVin_RYDgtwpj744pa7k_W3uMFBlIu7UijSVqWhsQ2HxOAmYhijwFP75RJ0ynKY9sCnrmAM5HkRO6naUbp4yBgfLx6jAm5EcVmOokSXb5tKPsCmSv/s1600/gbamp2s+dmg-001+installed.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT8VHlHSAEdDnHf3VNRgBqQRlzJ2ckVin_RYDgtwpj744pa7k_W3uMFBlIu7UijSVqWhsQ2HxOAmYhijwFP75RJ0ynKY9sCnrmAM5HkRO6naUbp4yBgfLx6jAm5EcVmOokSXb5tKPsCmSv/s1600/gbamp2s+dmg-001+installed.jpg" height="270" width="640" /></a></div>
Mod pcb has to be installed in different place otherwise case would not close. Also longer wires. Works great. <a href="https://www.tindie.com/products/antonveretenenko/gameboy-color-quality-loud-sound-mod-pcb/" target="_blank">GBAmp<sub>2s</sub> at tindie.com</a>.</div>
Anton Veretenenkohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18150583438255070310noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6356425659873504094.post-15441838133292785532014-02-01T01:14:00.000+06:002015-12-24T03:49:25.799+05:00New Enhanced Gameboy Color Loud Sound mod<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU8eiGzRz4NbBiL91_MGwINFi5tIdO1IwqbrJJSd5dxhSrwTuYr_2aGuclWqsytiYlsGZI7gbJBasFuL3QqXaTu-iLO5P_Gr19tqknlYzVsEhnfEpiNO7pfziTCDZKS7QQykhWNwYutemO/s1600/gbamp2s+pcb.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="183" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU8eiGzRz4NbBiL91_MGwINFi5tIdO1IwqbrJJSd5dxhSrwTuYr_2aGuclWqsytiYlsGZI7gbJBasFuL3QqXaTu-iLO5P_Gr19tqknlYzVsEhnfEpiNO7pfziTCDZKS7QQykhWNwYutemO/s1600/gbamp2s+pcb.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
<b><span style="color: #e06666;">NEW</span>: <a href="http://veretenenko.ru/anton/gbamp3/" target="_blank">GBAmp3</a> </b>is available, includes headphones support (mute speaker).<br />
<br />
New enhanced version of Gameboy Color quality loud sound mod is ready. It's called GBAmp<sub>2s</sub>. It's ready to order at <a href="https://www.tindie.com/products/antonveretenenko/gbamp3-sound-mod-for-game-boy/" target="_blank">tindie.com</a><br />
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Difference with the previous version is that it is using different amplifier ic with more gain. Also it uses stereo audio signal from Gameboy. And you do not need to install additional capacitor to remove loud hiss/hum from the speaker. A bunch of quality capacitors already installed on the GBAmp<sub>2s</sub> mod pcb.<br />
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Bare and assempled pcbs:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDj93tu8UgFLboUqppLodVESlviHlPvIMci6O9r2WjsGjzWX2Ik3TnNm4iyL05xHZLsZ3rfhXXIZB-G7SkGoVJipyBA-G9S2PN3khxdfAXg044n2Pa6yF3URyUkgNDdj-POSChluLnJEcc/s1600/gbamp2s+bare+and+assembled.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="226" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDj93tu8UgFLboUqppLodVESlviHlPvIMci6O9r2WjsGjzWX2Ik3TnNm4iyL05xHZLsZ3rfhXXIZB-G7SkGoVJipyBA-G9S2PN3khxdfAXg044n2Pa6yF3URyUkgNDdj-POSChluLnJEcc/s1600/gbamp2s+bare+and+assembled.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
Back:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgznu-sM69xCRr9NLv3i0l3mHou2mNa4wKTsI3afEQW-fLbxefKWP_cwXMkEall3E1EK0ZjxNqMNlOUGnxJ22hqn-lByiXuRmRhrWJhLs3N9cjluUOpo8P4eyYHZ5YqysqAwMSdNbxZxGyd/s1600/gbamp2s+back.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="272" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgznu-sM69xCRr9NLv3i0l3mHou2mNa4wKTsI3afEQW-fLbxefKWP_cwXMkEall3E1EK0ZjxNqMNlOUGnxJ22hqn-lByiXuRmRhrWJhLs3N9cjluUOpo8P4eyYHZ5YqysqAwMSdNbxZxGyd/s1600/gbamp2s+back.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
And here how it looks installed in the Gameboy Color:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcwkwDgxJw0UVPmo0NHH6jvTAmE9MHzYNZhPi9ia75U8VYk2h6SLPLp683BulUxIhjC4Lqkb3THFrNt_11Gz96r9C5_84Wx9AKbyryGby4tfa0zwhu-xNN3niMcRbgn8BeLN-VyaX-qplP/s1600/gbamp2s+installed.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="410" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcwkwDgxJw0UVPmo0NHH6jvTAmE9MHzYNZhPi9ia75U8VYk2h6SLPLp683BulUxIhjC4Lqkb3THFrNt_11Gz96r9C5_84Wx9AKbyryGby4tfa0zwhu-xNN3niMcRbgn8BeLN-VyaX-qplP/s1600/gbamp2s+installed.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Yes there are couple more wires to get stereo audio to pcb. This new pcb design has all connections marked on silkscreen, so it's easier to install.<br />
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New pcbs are made by <a href="http://pcb.hqew.net/?s=545646">hqew.net</a> which service I will review later.</div>
Anton Veretenenkohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18150583438255070310noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6356425659873504094.post-89051322777188434592013-11-22T05:04:00.001+06:002013-11-30T10:03:47.373+06:00Let's make a Wireless Speaker<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Found some unused parts laying in the box, let's make something.<br />
How about battery powered wireless speaker, portable speaker for your phone or player. What wireless technology I going to use? Bluetooth ofcourse.<br />
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Let's take cheap speakers like this for example <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CXXDBM/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B001CXXDBM&linkCode=as2&tag=electrodiyhob-20" target="_blank">Pyle PLMR24</a>. I bought these to use outside, but...<br />
look inside:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwHv3GRHpD3T2mMBcW_WvRVJVUU0pX7zKitNBhsKY3Nj8oilyAHbmLiJzj6ER07voxKwpmAXIVejM1D4ExG42mfM2PIy42K0ghVffUeIgC2pdYgOqyI6rGnjmziFIajjYEqEbiK_GsRxqN/s1600/speaker+inside.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="324" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwHv3GRHpD3T2mMBcW_WvRVJVUU0pX7zKitNBhsKY3Nj8oilyAHbmLiJzj6ER07voxKwpmAXIVejM1D4ExG42mfM2PIy42K0ghVffUeIgC2pdYgOqyI6rGnjmziFIajjYEqEbiK_GsRxqN/s640/speaker+inside.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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"Completely Water Proof" with a big hole in the front. I thought it should be sealed. Do you see advertised "Capacitor Crossover Network"? I don't. Just wires. Those "1.75" Wide Dispersion Cone Midrange" and "1" Super Dome Tweeter" made of 2 identical <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0076ON66S/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0076ON66S&linkCode=as2&tag=electrodiyhob-20" target="_blank">piezoelectric transducers</a>, have a spare.<br />
I'm going to listen mostly talk podcasts on this wireless speaker, so, doesn't matter much.<br />
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As a bluetooth A2DP receiver I'm going to use <a href="http://www.anrdoezrs.net/click-7334861-10577840?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.aliexpress.com%2Fwholesale%3FisFreeShip%3Dy%26shipCountry%3Dus%26isAtmOnline%3Dn%26cv%3D10577840%26SortType%3Dprice_asc%26SearchText%3DKRC-86B%26cn%3Dnull%26CatId%3D0%26initiative_id%3DSB_20131121143547%26tp1%3Dnull%26tracelog%3Dnull%26src%3Dale%26isRtl%3Dyes%26af%3Dcj_1%26vd%3D30" target="_blank">KRC 86A/B V3.2</a> but any other <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FQ4OVE6/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00FQ4OVE6&linkCode=as2&tag=electrodiyhob-20" target="_blank">A2DP bluetooth modue</a> will do. KRC has CSR BlueCore5 bluetooth chip and making a bit of hiss noise when connecting.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVzhKluteoHMpjqEY-SykO3ijPustBQt86CP-lCu9UDrJIAu8GQS_mM6gzM5K_CGL_IbbXhkW_Jh584bUc-IROoOS79f2m1bJsXusr8mRd1UmhzKlYGjMDp0eBFgEorgOlL9FJjMnz2wWA/s1600/bt+module.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVzhKluteoHMpjqEY-SykO3ijPustBQt86CP-lCu9UDrJIAu8GQS_mM6gzM5K_CGL_IbbXhkW_Jh584bUc-IROoOS79f2m1bJsXusr8mRd1UmhzKlYGjMDp0eBFgEorgOlL9FJjMnz2wWA/s640/bt+module.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Next I need a sound amplifier. I took <a href="http://www.ti.com/product/tpa2005d1" target="_blank">TPA2005D1</a> ic known from my <a href="http://veretenenko.ru/anton/gbamp" target="_blank">GBAmp project</a>. It's only 1.4W power but for my purporse it is enough. And it is class-d very efficient amplifier, good for batteries. I'm going to use <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s/?_encoding=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&linkCode=ur2&pageMinusResults=1&suo=1385074249718&tag=electrodiyhob-20&url=search-alias%3Daps#/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=18650%20battery&sprefix=18650%2Caps&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3A18650%20battery&sepatfbtf=true&tc=1385074251940" target="_blank">18650 li-on</a> single cell battery.<br />
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I measured width of the bluetooth module pcb and designed amplifier pcb to be glued on top of module pcb. Then I made a couple of amplifier pcbs at home with most working method, one for backup.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj49SvJTRTSlq7joCSEpQniSs-uv_490wYPLVyno56oAqxtPFPvkMfQlLP0xRlmnwT6m7ypvO5UwqIJXxR_qZr8czci7Uf-382wEPMdw2aa9Qk8c1Uem9cqRNAnZMEdEUYNOGSWTSlRKpQ/s1600/pcbs.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="216" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj49SvJTRTSlq7joCSEpQniSs-uv_490wYPLVyno56oAqxtPFPvkMfQlLP0xRlmnwT6m7ypvO5UwqIJXxR_qZr8czci7Uf-382wEPMdw2aa9Qk8c1Uem9cqRNAnZMEdEUYNOGSWTSlRKpQ/s640/pcbs.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
There are many capacitors with small capacity, I have not any bigger capacity caps in stock.<br />
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Then glue it with double sticky tape on top of bluetooth module. And connect wires.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibNkkT_qlu-TRS5V-oo5bw0RiesiBWhiIu7wS2bgE7mW-_xg2XbKN9CB8WvE5zG22tofzZ4IFaWHJbztEnT-q6p0-e6k4VWz-jzEuwlj9a7QudLb8g78hXAybH_sPz6m2Khn65Xv4jZjyp/s1600/pcb+glued+to+bt+module.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="448" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibNkkT_qlu-TRS5V-oo5bw0RiesiBWhiIu7wS2bgE7mW-_xg2XbKN9CB8WvE5zG22tofzZ4IFaWHJbztEnT-q6p0-e6k4VWz-jzEuwlj9a7QudLb8g78hXAybH_sPz6m2Khn65Xv4jZjyp/s640/pcb+glued+to+bt+module.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
As you can see the final amplifier version configured to 18dB gain.<br />
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Add a battery holder, tape and glue it all to the speaker back.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPRPHrr32liDcajA0XUj9ViQVRxU7aDIfo9IHnhqOi0pEOlLjITEvvt31IrOuKdOqAQOMsk_ZzXnETOFGUcz_K36w-z0nzirSKZsA47VrsMiIn84hP4MRXxzyiuNsOLEGWM6zTfh2H1ict/s1600/speaker+back+done.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="462" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPRPHrr32liDcajA0XUj9ViQVRxU7aDIfo9IHnhqOi0pEOlLjITEvvt31IrOuKdOqAQOMsk_ZzXnETOFGUcz_K36w-z0nzirSKZsA47VrsMiIn84hP4MRXxzyiuNsOLEGWM6zTfh2H1ict/s640/speaker+back+done.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
You can see blue led glowing, means it is conneceted. I'm thining to put it all insude and add charger pcb and a swith, that will look much better. But for now, it works s is. Battery will last for several days I guess. I already used it for 10 or so hours.</div>
Anton Veretenenkohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18150583438255070310noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6356425659873504094.post-19688574664338962432013-10-13T15:20:00.001+06:002015-09-10T23:13:29.076+05:00TI LaunchPad RDA5807P (TEA5767) FM Radio inside a pc speaker<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004G52S82/ref=as_li_ss_il?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B004G52S82&linkCode=as2&tag=electrodiyhob-20"><img border="0" src="http://ws-na.amazon-adsystem.com/widgets/q?_encoding=UTF8&ASIN=B004G52S82&Format=_SL160_&ID=AsinImage&MarketPlace=US&ServiceVersion=20070822&WS=1&tag=electrodiyhob-20" /></a><img alt="" border="0" src="http://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=electrodiyhob-20&l=as2&o=1&a=B004G52S82" height="1" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" /></div>
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This is about my old project when I firstly received <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004G52S82/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B004G52S82&linkCode=as2&tag=electrodiyhob-20" target="_blank">TI LaunchPad kits</a>.<br />
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An encoder used for tuning to frequency. I'm using an encoder with push button which used as search function to auto tune in fm station. Couple of caps used for debounce..<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAVC_0WppWZmYkXMUoz3L2wS8gxHBi745JU-CKrURs3rtIMbjN8VyQw5vAzjwGIXSvLaXPo6TIUWoI3-yuR8jOUCxAGp8I-MtDXuGqBQiWJVhX9ep9N28IFAovIAkvjm11bU_Rnbhkrqin/s1600/DSC_2348.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAVC_0WppWZmYkXMUoz3L2wS8gxHBi745JU-CKrURs3rtIMbjN8VyQw5vAzjwGIXSvLaXPo6TIUWoI3-yuR8jOUCxAGp8I-MtDXuGqBQiWJVhX9ep9N28IFAovIAkvjm11bU_Rnbhkrqin/s640/DSC_2348.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
I used old pc speakers, which already has amplifier inside and a transformet to power this fm radio. Just added 3.3v linear regulator in dead bug style.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijRzDyr4eqr1qLKMBeS8IMCcD_gRVv4go4srf2rXlmbI4jtgXHNbJr04LkC29nkQXSfccy-NIm1QXEz9TP4-GDVeYgLrgbYkGN_f9pJ1UId9RUKCKghu9So7jCYM4KS3r2YvO7pWwbHPNP/s1600/DSC_2351.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijRzDyr4eqr1qLKMBeS8IMCcD_gRVv4go4srf2rXlmbI4jtgXHNbJr04LkC29nkQXSfccy-NIm1QXEz9TP4-GDVeYgLrgbYkGN_f9pJ1UId9RUKCKghu9So7jCYM4KS3r2YvO7pWwbHPNP/s640/DSC_2351.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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I had RDA5807P fm radio module from china. RDA5807P is a clone of TEA5767 including i2c commands and functions etc. Read the datasheets for <a href="https://docs.google.com/file/d/0Bxp6lQbuqRuzSm5ZQVRPaVlrd00/edit?usp=sharing" target="_blank">rda5807p</a> and <a href="https://docs.google.com/file/d/0Bxp6lQbuqRuzMENPZzZlaldCbE0/edit?usp=sharing" target="_blank">tea5767</a>. Any similiar module will do.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhE_5GO4vy0oZvSBZ_KjW8ikzequqqtGbC0ODNNs4sjfg9j0olPxS7ThjgZFUeqKre0Vr58ez4oAKNWdaB8ZIUG1-6SBn9IEIzOEm9XnRY4EwbWwnRaJPuiKO2eTRofFe6eHatxxot1M25k/s1600/DSC_2352.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhE_5GO4vy0oZvSBZ_KjW8ikzequqqtGbC0ODNNs4sjfg9j0olPxS7ThjgZFUeqKre0Vr58ez4oAKNWdaB8ZIUG1-6SBn9IEIzOEm9XnRY4EwbWwnRaJPuiKO2eTRofFe6eHatxxot1M25k/s640/DSC_2352.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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I then wrote a driver for rda5807p and application code to control frequency with encoder etc. As for PLL tunning I had to precalculate a table for fm radio spectrum because my msp430 chips only had 2kb of flash.<br />
Cram it all inside the speaker housing.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5F5rEnXd2WaKumxI8fZDUD7-idzq3k_xlj8HDNdbJciie4oI19_46qfMfIR_Idmue0RmkuXydadYld8ucXLIwP8cNo_dJS_iLUwq7koZNDrca4S-rF41PR_oEMSKnhY22DvOOfDKwuq6v/s1600/DSC_2353.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5F5rEnXd2WaKumxI8fZDUD7-idzq3k_xlj8HDNdbJciie4oI19_46qfMfIR_Idmue0RmkuXydadYld8ucXLIwP8cNo_dJS_iLUwq7koZNDrca4S-rF41PR_oEMSKnhY22DvOOfDKwuq6v/s640/DSC_2353.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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And the whole look.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEism92u76IYhgFe7JEk2xy2QoAEyVCCTBXbgZoTulr2aEA5Kerc7MR5TjzJR6ONX5uUMYkwxbetWPC_x8IOGf0fg3N_fjECh4f0JchbbXDh7duOIPEGdzdz83tvCBX_sMB9yPXH1Fsg6_8t/s1600/DSC_2355.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEism92u76IYhgFe7JEk2xy2QoAEyVCCTBXbgZoTulr2aEA5Kerc7MR5TjzJR6ONX5uUMYkwxbetWPC_x8IOGf0fg3N_fjECh4f0JchbbXDh7duOIPEGdzdz83tvCBX_sMB9yPXH1Fsg6_8t/s640/DSC_2355.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
Antenna wire goes out from speaker's "phase inverter" hole.<br />
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RDA5807P driver and application is open source and available at: <a href="https://bitbucket.org/antonveretenenko/ti-launchpad-fm-radio" target="_blank">TI LaunchPad FM Radio repository</a>.</div>
Anton Veretenenkohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18150583438255070310noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6356425659873504094.post-5501591426971314462013-07-24T17:26:00.002+06:002014-02-09T22:24:35.559+06:00Gameboy Color Quality Sound Mod update<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<b>Update</b>: new version available for order <a href="http://blog.avrnoob.com/2014/02/new-enhanced-gameboy-color-loud-sound.html">http://blog.avrnoob.com/2014/02/new-enhanced-gameboy-color-loud-sound.html</a><br />
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Here we go again about sound in the Gameboy Color handheld.<br />
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I've made new pcb with new smaller amp ic. So this is a new leaf style cut pcb and it will fit just over speaker in the speaker cutout. Virtually takes no space.<br />
I've already tested it, sounds great. Set to 12db gain.<br />
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Here how it looks when wired up. Needs only 3 wires to install (+2 for speaker).<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1AvfMGQKxxmueV07zcs1GOWKk-MJ9bsx579IAyBVtip0NzG02GomBU2nLCseoJop8xOLgPq5G3cp4jME9V6Dhru8xWz52kpRTlVC34UhLbobHlp5qDmy3fRFg6w-vMQGP_4GfFbvEfx0o/s1600/wired.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1AvfMGQKxxmueV07zcs1GOWKk-MJ9bsx579IAyBVtip0NzG02GomBU2nLCseoJop8xOLgPq5G3cp4jME9V6Dhru8xWz52kpRTlVC34UhLbobHlp5qDmy3fRFg6w-vMQGP_4GfFbvEfx0o/s640/wired.jpg" height="414" width="640" /></a></div>
I can make it into a kit now.<br />
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Anton Veretenenkohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18150583438255070310noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6356425659873504094.post-12382483192639671552013-01-21T04:04:00.001+06:002013-01-23T23:44:53.619+06:00Chinese electronics recycle fun or what's inside gsm to landline phone terminal<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Here we go. I have a simple <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s/?_encoding=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&field-keywords=gsm%20landline&linkCode=ur2&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Agsm%20landline&tag=electrodiyhob-20&url=search-alias%3Daps" target="_blank">gsm terminal for landline phones</a>, so I can call from regular analog phones through gsm network. I'm using it in low signal area with external antenna.<br />
So one day I decided to look what's inside of it. I was thinking there would be some kind of gsm modem inside and analog support electronics etc. But found some interesting stuff.<br />
Here how this thing looks, nothing important just grey box with gold antenna output sma socket.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzWjj1KzxhhLvi_C8ZtkozeJ8ZD_6CGtnCgtqRbeI2L_8gc0JCnZLkG1gVFUrWsM1Fj2AnsTAJXLa8_7hMz83A_QkRvD5tsi4_7yJvqi0dAaER76-0QvUEB0ye_ODxo6IcCoEJRZow5Stc/s1600/outside.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="420" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzWjj1KzxhhLvi_C8ZtkozeJ8ZD_6CGtnCgtqRbeI2L_8gc0JCnZLkG1gVFUrWsM1Fj2AnsTAJXLa8_7hMz83A_QkRvD5tsi4_7yJvqi0dAaER76-0QvUEB0ye_ODxo6IcCoEJRZow5Stc/s640/outside.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_MhPkW503cnhWqQayt2Sy6BY8RNOWMYIElVzpvhw57on6brWEDNC1mhJeY9YeizwXTDw6JZYmlxgtMB48T0qHZEdzfXg8csB_pLmPwJzCCf46rBTfM4vlf-NxVohVuheHFzCQdlauUfDs/s1600/outside_under.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="408" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_MhPkW503cnhWqQayt2Sy6BY8RNOWMYIElVzpvhw57on6brWEDNC1mhJeY9YeizwXTDw6JZYmlxgtMB48T0qHZEdzfXg8csB_pLmPwJzCCf46rBTfM4vlf-NxVohVuheHFzCQdlauUfDs/s640/outside_under.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Now let's take a look inside:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioAQspXaz6V7GCo3AbkQAxnDQ_vxkuKR6pqP6OPv33lK83C-Y0negNlP7OmCs_EOg-apmO2wx9j13hlOm-z5mWrKERRxxcIwZxSyaBRY_zlrGLl2r2KFcmD_2eht2Nm5HAlU-vf2e2ICyh/s1600/inside_overview.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="410" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioAQspXaz6V7GCo3AbkQAxnDQ_vxkuKR6pqP6OPv33lK83C-Y0negNlP7OmCs_EOg-apmO2wx9j13hlOm-z5mWrKERRxxcIwZxSyaBRY_zlrGLl2r2KFcmD_2eht2Nm5HAlU-vf2e2ICyh/s640/inside_overview.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Yes, it is a gsm cell phone pcb inside! With phone battery for backup power. This thing is powered by <a href="http://www.nuvoton.com/NuvotonMOSS/Community/ProductInfo.aspx?tp_GUID=4119224f-5a2b-4861-a2aa-4e7895c6a532" target="_blank">nuvoTon W78E052DDG</a> mcu. Which has 80C51(52) core. Never heared of them yet, but they make Cortex-M0 mcu and other ARMs too. I guess it is connected to the phones serial port.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmZOKB8m9bSpXzhQFKmOoszk1C57mlIg8tFzqP4gKJG0og4V8Cz2eGE8U0XZHmAYod3_PdUEjPFhsJcUPgteOiVYvqw_gpanNaif115yl3NmTcrF2OP6j91_d0d-CcOBFLEcqw5UDTK-cI/s1600/inside_2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmZOKB8m9bSpXzhQFKmOoszk1C57mlIg8tFzqP4gKJG0og4V8Cz2eGE8U0XZHmAYod3_PdUEjPFhsJcUPgteOiVYvqw_gpanNaif115yl3NmTcrF2OP6j91_d0d-CcOBFLEcqw5UDTK-cI/s640/inside_2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Wires soldered directly to pcb connector.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjK8U5iYo-NQkRrxSKiQZ5T61DzY8ShKYBGj8g48_MBnGXmWxgfrYzrLxD9fK9bWmDzfKPKUuvwGKQOtEZIiR5KptrP1899El9eSqcJHo6AnwBaDZ3yffx1_9XbU04tmCogfXOptWjDXCxV/s1600/inside_3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjK8U5iYo-NQkRrxSKiQZ5T61DzY8ShKYBGj8g48_MBnGXmWxgfrYzrLxD9fK9bWmDzfKPKUuvwGKQOtEZIiR5KptrP1899El9eSqcJHo6AnwBaDZ3yffx1_9XbU04tmCogfXOptWjDXCxV/s640/inside_3.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Looks like Nokia or SE connector to me.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSAPv7Y3O1_ti-_LUWb4Wa9xV25B2XusbeuF_lLs8rz6ogaJFbgrUQVOl3-ssZZz9gsqzP9Zk87fAT4zxsVlakDiracrUYNxvXcxHljtjBx27x_BiXeWqJ-HZZe-xzD4fZrPmpY8gtjFh-/s1600/inside_con.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="384" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSAPv7Y3O1_ti-_LUWb4Wa9xV25B2XusbeuF_lLs8rz6ogaJFbgrUQVOl3-ssZZz9gsqzP9Zk87fAT4zxsVlakDiracrUYNxvXcxHljtjBx27x_BiXeWqJ-HZZe-xzD4fZrPmpY8gtjFh-/s640/inside_con.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Wires soldered directly to phone external connector.<br />
Phone pcb screwed to terminal housing posts, so this housing is made for this particular phone pcb on purporse. It means some kind of cellphones recycling =) Chips on phone pcb has date codes leading to 1999.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqyGmJk7MtnHwpVpIVhQxcd1mC5c1u-4zW45QEw75bLiNoWfBauGK7rRZYXtLfHIYcO1QbD_y6bi5Rf_cXt2pYaaIRbuEiotFvay-iq4RWiF7lUyGzHdISSh7PvBxomadCzA-cQLOGJyqg/s1600/inside_sim.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="504" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqyGmJk7MtnHwpVpIVhQxcd1mC5c1u-4zW45QEw75bLiNoWfBauGK7rRZYXtLfHIYcO1QbD_y6bi5Rf_cXt2pYaaIRbuEiotFvay-iq4RWiF7lUyGzHdISSh7PvBxomadCzA-cQLOGJyqg/s640/inside_sim.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Wires soldered to the phones sim socket leads to a new sim socket on bottom side of terminal main pcb.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVfldJzXkPkA8HaX9ldAEfLIbqL1ymTYLIH_DcjO66DJGBeEA8G3KUq5T2o0b-fTF9BBToqcCYCk9mzDo1JFfWdkE6r6QAI6xN-_TZ8i8JTZqVNQ87a_OQ0PoFZsyNUb7ivS83RbT6JrpK/s1600/inside_under_phone.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVfldJzXkPkA8HaX9ldAEfLIbqL1ymTYLIH_DcjO66DJGBeEA8G3KUq5T2o0b-fTF9BBToqcCYCk9mzDo1JFfWdkE6r6QAI6xN-_TZ8i8JTZqVNQ87a_OQ0PoFZsyNUb7ivS83RbT6JrpK/s640/inside_under_phone.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Some unknown chip under pcb.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXIC3IcFmuxjfzDY-DpjU45RJgrztzL1dShHOTidJ_NoCEKSLt_nGC6QU11nG8czILK2WYBQWR0b7TtGDWYtoAlnMqr95Xp6Perf6P26H7K9a75rt-68iE0UmK_WccEsY9kDzG1npVT1am/s1600/inside_lazered.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXIC3IcFmuxjfzDY-DpjU45RJgrztzL1dShHOTidJ_NoCEKSLt_nGC6QU11nG8czILK2WYBQWR0b7TtGDWYtoAlnMqr95Xp6Perf6P26H7K9a75rt-68iE0UmK_WccEsY9kDzG1npVT1am/s640/inside_lazered.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Here must be some know-how, otherwise I don't know why they sand those chips markings.<br />
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LCD board glued in place =) This LCD board is connected through serial data line, may easily be reused. There is a black blob lcd controller on pcb.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0GjmZ5Hyl3shlh4kIPXIDFhOKJW_nJwF_o1MDRnFfnM3C6TnqYzyy3Q_9F5hyU-qgVtj-uF52y93330jhpVkYuglx21RKvPXo6MxKLA0LHk0-h6mBKzrF7R58arKIdUQ6aM38QQitJjsz/s1600/lcd.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="388" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0GjmZ5Hyl3shlh4kIPXIDFhOKJW_nJwF_o1MDRnFfnM3C6TnqYzyy3Q_9F5hyU-qgVtj-uF52y93330jhpVkYuglx21RKvPXo6MxKLA0LHk0-h6mBKzrF7R58arKIdUQ6aM38QQitJjsz/s640/lcd.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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LCD itself actually has a good contrast.<br />
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I had used a cell phone as wireless terminal to send sms alerts. But I never though this would be used in actual manufacturing =)<br />
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<b>Update: </b>as requested I pictured main pcb bottom side:<br />
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Anton Veretenenkohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18150583438255070310noreply@blogger.com28tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6356425659873504094.post-9816898713254492132012-12-07T05:14:00.000+06:002012-12-07T05:14:32.445+06:00PIR Motion sensor relay fast repair<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Recently my motion sensor lights switch went bad. I opened it up and found that main ic is dead, but relay and relay transistor is ok. So I ordered really small <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s/?_encoding=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&keywords=pir%20module&linkCode=ur2&qid=1354832930&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Apir%20module&tag=electrodiyhob-20" target="_blank">PIR Sensor Module</a> to fit it in place of dead ic. That ic was LP8072C which is a pir controller and it support light intensity sensor which is just a <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s/?_encoding=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&field-keywords=photoresistor&linkCode=ur2&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Aphotoresistor&tag=electrodiyhob-20&url=search-alias%3Daps" target="_blank">Photoresistor</a>. So my motion sensor does not switch relay in daylight, designed for lights switching.<br />
Pir sensor module I've got does not support photoresistor, so I had to design it in myself. What I've done is connected photoresistor to the base of relay switch transistor and second lead to the ground. With a base resistor which was on pcb already it makes a strong pulldown to transistor base. So when it's a daylight, photoresistor changes it's resistance to about 220 Ohm which prevent transistor to switch relay. I had to remove some parts from original pcb which interfere with photoresistor. An I removed LP8072C too.<br />
Then I removed actual pir sensor can from module pcb and removed connectors too. Wired pcb pads to old pir sensor can on original pcb and to power and wired output to the output pad of LP8072C ic.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5vI8KmSklEb8kVIvoZqHiLPRaIQkWvRM_fLApw12CT5hCHQ97Fz4VeJxdSk5HjhOYr05a82pzbxIY_GkIA9H3F7Tynj6ec_uP5ZzVSYNwn7JIf6JFYNa2v1DnrZq_5lyPnbrK-Jf5wNY/s1600/DSC_3782.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="484" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5vI8KmSklEb8kVIvoZqHiLPRaIQkWvRM_fLApw12CT5hCHQ97Fz4VeJxdSk5HjhOYr05a82pzbxIY_GkIA9H3F7Tynj6ec_uP5ZzVSYNwn7JIf6JFYNa2v1DnrZq_5lyPnbrK-Jf5wNY/s640/DSC_3782.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://www.amazon.com/s/?_encoding=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&keywords=pir%20module&linkCode=ur2&qid=1354832930&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Apir%20module&tag=electrodiyhob-20" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPbg0RL3lA3BANVEZ-wtkn99x9U__0WANptr-nMDi33wgm6Q9W4w0x1Cwe_UXOQVVe9_I1iaKDA7-kP2ihkJ_2k4sWtQ1ipsVR8b6B4u9JdOvayQTYLWz_klPKVMH8-qy5VC2h7Q8QQvg/s1600/m8ZK6sA1-j4d5jTR11XPxfA.jpg" /></a>Then I glued sensor module pcb in place. Works ok except this new sensor has short keep relay on timeout, but whatever. This can be adjusted I guess, ic on sensor module pcb is unknown, no markings, it looks like sanded.<br />
As you spotted there is no power supply as we used to see. It's just Live wire through 0.47 uF 250v cap in series with resistor to diode bridge. Then to 25v filter cap then to regular diode to drop voltage a bit then to zenner diode to get 5v with filter cap. It's a low power supply. Sometimes it's used inside cheap led light bulbs with many leds. This red 0.47 uf cap is half dead already because it's rated to 250v and as you know 220v mains has 315v sine peaks. It's capacity is 0.2 uf and it still works.</div>
avrnoobhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03442239095072309381noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6356425659873504094.post-62194469528043772602012-10-13T22:32:00.000+06:002014-02-09T22:23:28.601+06:00Game Boy Color Loud Sound Mod<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<b>Update</b>: new version available for order <a href="http://blog.avrnoob.com/2014/02/new-enhanced-gameboy-color-loud-sound.html">http://blog.avrnoob.com/2014/02/new-enhanced-gameboy-color-loud-sound.html</a><br />
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<b>Update</b>: published schematics and pcb design files for Eagle and Gimp. Make your own pcb and respect the license =) Take a look: <a href="http://code.avrnoob.com/gameboy-color-quality-amplifier/">http://code.avrnoob.com/gameboy-color-quality-amplifier/</a><br />
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Recently I've got used <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s/?_encoding=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&h=8866270fc95ac22aa8858bc8c6835138642936e1&keywords=Game%20Boy%20Color&linkCode=ur2&qid=1350146560&rh=n%3A294933%2Ck%3AGame%20Boy%20Color&scn=294933&tag=electrodiyhob-20" target="_blank">Game Boy Color</a> and noticed lack of sound volume, it is barely audible. So I tear it down and pulled speaker out, it was all rusty.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2PO8LTev9L9be-_TcxUchUovJGvyvgRNeDhpi-8cGCSbxy-p2WqVYuapRWA7fN8FMG0kcAx2hHpwklZTjnHBXPwcTnD1g_rhDkmDB5PObcRVxZ1qJY_rItQ3ElxGYvUg8LZmG6k0DXe8/s1600/gbc_speaker.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2PO8LTev9L9be-_TcxUchUovJGvyvgRNeDhpi-8cGCSbxy-p2WqVYuapRWA7fN8FMG0kcAx2hHpwklZTjnHBXPwcTnD1g_rhDkmDB5PObcRVxZ1qJY_rItQ3ElxGYvUg8LZmG6k0DXe8/s1600/gbc_speaker.jpg" /></a></div>
I had a speaker for <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003MB94YC/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B003MB94YC&linkCode=as2&tag=electrodiyhob-20" target="_blank">Motorola L7/L6/L2/L71/K1-GSM/V8</a> on hands and soldered it in. So this is fixed sound. But it is still not loud at all, so low volume, I had to use my headphones instead. Oh and there is loud hiss noise, guess it's coming from power supply. I had to do something with it =)<br />
I looked in my parts bin and spotted <a href="http://www.ti.com/product/tpa2000d1" target="_blank">TPA2000D1</a> - a class-D mono amplifier from TI. It is 2W power rated with programmable gain and class-d is pretty efficiency means low power consumption.<br />
After some time pcb was made.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi1fIGJy8TKwHGTvHsC_rgLAEdz_VmC_AoeE_MoA1QYGfO-oYm1XEDQFEXynVJL4abieNwTsewbnazhAEjKRZL5NILSkrtxDnRvjb250Dik3_m38oldZ31YhiRrzQpqpLnvk7v3J5X2rk/s1600/amp_pcb.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi1fIGJy8TKwHGTvHsC_rgLAEdz_VmC_AoeE_MoA1QYGfO-oYm1XEDQFEXynVJL4abieNwTsewbnazhAEjKRZL5NILSkrtxDnRvjb250Dik3_m38oldZ31YhiRrzQpqpLnvk7v3J5X2rk/s1600/amp_pcb.jpg" /></a></div>
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I used schematics from datasheet but in the final version I changed 1uF bypass cap and other 1uF caps to 10uF and added 0.1uF. Also I had to change 120k resistor in oscillator circuit to 180k to keep frequency below 300 kHz, it was 330 kHz with 120k resistor.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCdSyfvenhW08_oinEcUYeXHCirRy06nuaHVELO1fkWsvOCBgJ0f-jgluTP9z7DWFJUJQRdJSptHPmPGFq-rcSpL0W3s4gHqQqbL5hSHIHLrGFD1yVDrdB1w2j1A_jnLU3jNo2gzcEXlY/s1600/gbc_pcb_with_amp_ann.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCdSyfvenhW08_oinEcUYeXHCirRy06nuaHVELO1fkWsvOCBgJ0f-jgluTP9z7DWFJUJQRdJSptHPmPGFq-rcSpL0W3s4gHqQqbL5hSHIHLrGFD1yVDrdB1w2j1A_jnLU3jNo2gzcEXlY/s640/gbc_pcb_with_amp_ann.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></div>
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Powered up ok first time wires connected and sound now is much louder even with gain of 6 dB but then I set it to 12 dB by moving one resistor to outrun any ambient noise. This is max before clipping I guess. Unfortunately noise hiss did not gone away and become even louder on high volume, so this is power supply. Game Boy Color is powered with two AA batteries. But it has switching step up power supply with 15V and 5V output, this makes noise because amp is powered from 5V. I had to add additional 470uF cap to 5V power rail to make noise go almost away, now it's barely audible on max volume.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt43JcwXEQzghhzRq8J5vs1HPqEQuMJerlUU811M2S8HEn4qgMvvJVI_bcnrKGO_xicVRArP-RHBXIcuRShAylCnPHl9sowLTDPPn4763wOrkADDt6-NTfairRomFJL2NLREEGq2DF0h4/s1600/gbc_with_amp_placed.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt43JcwXEQzghhzRq8J5vs1HPqEQuMJerlUU811M2S8HEn4qgMvvJVI_bcnrKGO_xicVRArP-RHBXIcuRShAylCnPHl9sowLTDPPn4763wOrkADDt6-NTfairRomFJL2NLREEGq2DF0h4/s640/gbc_with_amp_placed.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></div>
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Amplifier pcb moved over speaker and case closes nicely.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqTWf4v20cDLVYGuadh3etlwpzpHoTaFaOMsrqyZ_fdHioy4t9fuutgQY89aDCtqr5zHXrX4tc20m3dHPQub018It8oGZjVYd90tzum8VKwE-Mc2PRyK9YO1y7Quj6kIW-RMz26Rq1THM/s1600/gpc_closed.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqTWf4v20cDLVYGuadh3etlwpzpHoTaFaOMsrqyZ_fdHioy4t9fuutgQY89aDCtqr5zHXrX4tc20m3dHPQub018It8oGZjVYd90tzum8VKwE-Mc2PRyK9YO1y7Quj6kIW-RMz26Rq1THM/s640/gpc_closed.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
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</div>
Amp barely visible inside. This Game Boy Color now definitely has Hi Fi sound =)</div>
avrnoobhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03442239095072309381noreply@blogger.com19tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6356425659873504094.post-89148119303363335122012-08-19T05:36:00.000+06:002012-08-19T05:36:15.359+06:00OBD II Bluetooth PowerUp<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Just upgraded my Bluetooth OBD II adapter with class 1 power module. Now I can diagnose a car sitting at home.<br />
You can get <a href="http://www.amazon.com/mn/search/?_encoding=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&field-keywords=bluetooth%20obd&linkCode=ur2&tag=electrodiyhob-20&url=search-alias%3Daps" target="_blank">bluetooth OBD2 adapters from Amazon</a><img alt="" border="0" height="1" src="https://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=electrodiyhob-20&l=ur2&o=1" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" /> but neither of them has class 1 power bluetooth module with ceramic antenna! =)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwUJ-jlLN9a0sD2RF78GIqQoFuHbWpdq5llo0YGTYvBuhVSIq3oYM0fJ0kpzw4_DRGMnGFsUG0Wng17V6EHMnl7wGFXaBSTOzssl7sZM78GZ971ytIomEt0ALduH5W_4E2__Vp-QaC9G0/s1600/DSC_3468.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwUJ-jlLN9a0sD2RF78GIqQoFuHbWpdq5llo0YGTYvBuhVSIq3oYM0fJ0kpzw4_DRGMnGFsUG0Wng17V6EHMnl7wGFXaBSTOzssl7sZM78GZ971ytIomEt0ALduH5W_4E2__Vp-QaC9G0/s640/DSC_3468.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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avrnoobhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03442239095072309381noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6356425659873504094.post-28997729196337813572012-08-10T04:52:00.000+06:002012-08-10T04:53:17.940+06:00DIY Car Bluetooth A2DP<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Does not have bluetooth in your car? No problem, let's do it yourself.<br />
I had a spare <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007QIXSVM/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B007QIXSVM&linkCode=as2&tag=electrodiyhob-20" target="_blank">iPod / iPhone dock Bluetooth A2DP receiver</a>, never used. So I decided to open it up and fit into car 12v plug with aux out.<br />
Here what it looks like when new:<br />
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<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007QIXSVM/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B007QIXSVM&linkCode=as2&tag=electrodiyhob-20" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCrspYQCLmBEW4w39IoAd_Ya78KnAhyphenhyphenT2QwAcHaUzjPsKxFSoLVDeYd1zJf-lsDBNBgftF3WhuADMGDgIQ7JGnaRlW9lbwTMf0S7ObCEOkPrptqsTvjbv9dn3cq19vmYelJ5XgS0ZcoDg/s640/DSC_3242.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
When opened there is one pcb with OVC3860 Bluetooth chip. Actually it sounds better than ISIS chips. That why I decided to use it.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiviD-4zrSIg0yypgtP0g240scfvtg3kPBqH-dYAbTZo9XO8rvQabqxqv3Iz4wU1i85Y9-qh5tQNbVGkcK6EHs6WItl63E99dh2d8y5wc1kVQbQuuAJ8LitfRAWPL2g3S3F0vQCIg6uMQw/s1600/DSC_3230.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="398" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiviD-4zrSIg0yypgtP0g240scfvtg3kPBqH-dYAbTZo9XO8rvQabqxqv3Iz4wU1i85Y9-qh5tQNbVGkcK6EHs6WItl63E99dh2d8y5wc1kVQbQuuAJ8LitfRAWPL2g3S3F0vQCIg6uMQw/s640/DSC_3230.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
I desoldered 30 pin ipod connector with heat soldering gun.<br />
Backside has some testpoins, maybe useful to easy solder wires for aux and power.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDAmQqCUEDoiHLvZGvLBVrRMhQhX-hDRWhvIFuAnkDdqqCppdF3Zujv4tZGajTGZFZeNCw6AtR0G8tydrYOwRYtBSjVd8AZ_DJXzL8y-bfwII5_xxrihzLqGaY0dI8gkJDffEDZ1vNR5I/s1600/DSC_3231.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDAmQqCUEDoiHLvZGvLBVrRMhQhX-hDRWhvIFuAnkDdqqCppdF3Zujv4tZGajTGZFZeNCw6AtR0G8tydrYOwRYtBSjVd8AZ_DJXzL8y-bfwII5_xxrihzLqGaY0dI8gkJDffEDZ1vNR5I/s640/DSC_3231.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
I traced 30 pin connector pads to testpoints and found out that this thing needs 5v power and has left, right, audio ground and 5v in and power ground on testpoints.<br />
I've opened 12 car plug, removed guts and tried to fit this pcb in, no fit =( But with desoldered 30 pin connector there is much unused space on pcb, so I cut it to fir nicely.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin79sZ0fUxGFTPBzZnBNqCKjNZl9tXc3lzh42DEG0N3MUb6BXZ887RPzRK5khkL1W_D4gPhTYhPi8UruzRiwKk3YHk8ubt9XSBEENmjXk1m84WfwHBHepyZCxssiQ7B_KWYRj8usJG_Dw/s1600/DSC_3233.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin79sZ0fUxGFTPBzZnBNqCKjNZl9tXc3lzh42DEG0N3MUb6BXZ887RPzRK5khkL1W_D4gPhTYhPi8UruzRiwKk3YHk8ubt9XSBEENmjXk1m84WfwHBHepyZCxssiQ7B_KWYRj8usJG_Dw/s640/DSC_3233.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYh0rhxxR7awoMWsJpBkZFrzEmAw_ycQsy_wz116kJJ-Hh6Ko2m-EI8fQWRcmwqagek2Xv0K-c7xgF1q-MsSbHxANPOJQnQLGMC3M4rqZN3fHYHxMCFitC7JvwkEUYTtE7Kr-lrbTvEj4/s1600/DSC_3239.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYh0rhxxR7awoMWsJpBkZFrzEmAw_ycQsy_wz116kJJ-Hh6Ko2m-EI8fQWRcmwqagek2Xv0K-c7xgF1q-MsSbHxANPOJQnQLGMC3M4rqZN3fHYHxMCFitC7JvwkEUYTtE7Kr-lrbTvEj4/s640/DSC_3239.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
Soldered 5v linear regulator and put heatshrink over it later.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4vcokGu8D76sTQBlli_MgYgHoBUB5R-cVFZ2VLsBV1H6GhwuuW8tsO9hBnP-L8Xd_unQzsacEkuQ8GOGMzV5zQMd8tFX0IBe8h4jK09ozIpvTDx-u6QEL1wcyzQWaOiuduV_yi0WGR4g/s1600/DSC_3240.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4vcokGu8D76sTQBlli_MgYgHoBUB5R-cVFZ2VLsBV1H6GhwuuW8tsO9hBnP-L8Xd_unQzsacEkuQ8GOGMzV5zQMd8tFX0IBe8h4jK09ozIpvTDx-u6QEL1wcyzQWaOiuduV_yi0WGR4g/s640/DSC_3240.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
Wired power and AUX out to 3.5mm female socket with screw mount and it is done.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8T-ifupJ6l2mjH0l3Gh0xRW0vvUARgwgRB9S9YoOsfWc1S0JxVKwwZE9R8hWWb79YhmgAOaEY-HFIgsfMVxkDNu_axnMKQ4DYfqBlItA-BvdKSj2luxQ2htxxsKHmRlMcMTHpbQkGDYg/s1600/DSC_3243.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8T-ifupJ6l2mjH0l3Gh0xRW0vvUARgwgRB9S9YoOsfWc1S0JxVKwwZE9R8hWWb79YhmgAOaEY-HFIgsfMVxkDNu_axnMKQ4DYfqBlItA-BvdKSj2luxQ2htxxsKHmRlMcMTHpbQkGDYg/s640/DSC_3243.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
Forget to take picture of it when closed, but there is nothing special, just plug hole visible. Sounds nice, but becomes hot almost instantly. This thing eats 100mA when receiving sound and 60mA when idle. So linear regulator works on the edge, it is rated for 100mA. But chip itself gets hot too, not sure why. Anyway I connect car AUX to this plug and have Bluetooth now.</div>avrnoobhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03442239095072309381noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6356425659873504094.post-3769311799338808932012-06-26T05:28:00.001+06:002012-06-26T05:28:28.794+06:00TI LaunchPad with OLED<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4u23e8XaLrJ8ll3MzTqYngS1ir7E3AWnnVhU5KHLTuRNjTjgSiRw9K9P7Wn_eSw8fB3vY4c0EsWz78NGfxChbdHuTUEZV0tPx2CPuZ8Nj316pMVjarbW-Jzby9KNgYoc4lUKqUhRkqme1/s1600/DSC_3049.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="ti launchpad oled" border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4u23e8XaLrJ8ll3MzTqYngS1ir7E3AWnnVhU5KHLTuRNjTjgSiRw9K9P7Wn_eSw8fB3vY4c0EsWz78NGfxChbdHuTUEZV0tPx2CPuZ8Nj316pMVjarbW-Jzby9KNgYoc4lUKqUhRkqme1/s640/DSC_3049.jpg" style="border: 1px solid rgb(243, 243, 243);" title="ti launchpad oled" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
Have not time til this week to play with my little OLED display which I won in Seeed Studio lottery last year.<br />
Connected it to TI LaunchPad. Made a little library to control it. Pixels addressing is a bit confusing. Had to do a font converter to make big digits font suitable to send to display without much processing in micro.<br />
Anyway, it is equipped with SSD1308 controller with i2c bus on connector. Used my oldy USI i2c driver library.<br />
Code which outputs those digits:<br />
<br />
<div style="background: #f0f0f0; background: white; border: 2px solid #f3f3f3; color: black; overflow: auto; padding: .2em .6em; width: auto;">
<pre style="line-height: 125%; margin: 0;"> i2c_init();
i2c_wait_for_device(oled_addr_w);
P1OUT <span style="color: #666666;">|=</span> LED_RED;
oled_command(OLED_DISPLAY_OFF); <span style="color: #60a0b0; font-style: italic;">// off</span>
oled_command_arg(OLED_CONTRAST, <span style="color: #40a070;">255</span>);
oled_command(OLED_DISPLAY_RAM);
oled_command(OLED_NORMAL);
oled_command_arg(OLED_CLOCK, (<span style="color: #40a070;">15</span> <span style="color: #666666;"><<</span> <span style="color: #40a070;">4</span>)<span style="color: #666666;">|</span><span style="color: #40a070;">0</span>); <span style="color: #60a0b0; font-style: italic;">// 0b1111 0000 fastest clock</span>
oled_command_arg(OLED_PRECHARGE, (<span style="color: #40a070;">3</span> <span style="color: #666666;"><<</span> <span style="color: #40a070;">4</span>)<span style="color: #666666;">|</span>(<span style="color: #40a070;">3</span>)); <span style="color: #60a0b0; font-style: italic;">// 3 dclk for 1 and 2 phase precharge</span>
oled_command_arg(OLED_ADDRESSING_MODE, OLED_ADDRESSING_HORIZONTAL);
oled_command_arg2(OLED_COLUMN_ADDRESS, <span style="color: #40a070;">0</span>, <span style="color: #40a070;">127</span>); <span style="color: #60a0b0; font-style: italic;">// column address from 0 to 127</span>
oled_command_arg2(OLED_PAGE_ADDRESS, <span style="color: #40a070;">0</span>, <span style="color: #40a070;">7</span>); <span style="color: #60a0b0; font-style: italic;">// page address from 0 to 7</span>
<span style="color: #902000;">unsigned</span> <span style="color: #902000;">int</span> i;
<span style="color: #60a0b0; font-style: italic;">// clear display</span>
oled_start_write_data();
<span style="color: #007020; font-weight: bold;">for</span> (i <span style="color: #666666;">=</span> <span style="color: #40a070;">0</span>; i <span style="color: #666666;"><</span> <span style="color: #40a070;">128</span><span style="color: #666666;">*</span><span style="color: #40a070;">8</span>; i<span style="color: #666666;">++</span>) {
oled_data(<span style="color: #40a070;">0</span>);
}
oled_stop_write();
oled_command_arg2(OLED_COLUMN_ADDRESS, <span style="color: #40a070;">0</span>, <span style="color: #40a070;">127</span>); <span style="color: #60a0b0; font-style: italic;">// column address from 0 to 127</span>
oled_command_arg2(OLED_PAGE_ADDRESS, <span style="color: #40a070;">0</span>, <span style="color: #40a070;">7</span>); <span style="color: #60a0b0; font-style: italic;">// page address from 0 to 7</span>
oled_print_big_digit(<span style="color: #40a070;">0</span>, <span style="color: #40a070;">0</span>, <span style="color: #40a070;">0</span>);
oled_print_big_digit(<span style="color: #40a070;">1</span>, <span style="color: #40a070;">1</span>, <span style="color: #40a070;">0</span>);
oled_print_big_digit(<span style="color: #40a070;">2</span>, <span style="color: #40a070;">2</span>, <span style="color: #40a070;">0</span>);
oled_print_big_digit(<span style="color: #40a070;">3</span>, <span style="color: #40a070;">3</span>, <span style="color: #40a070;">0</span>);
oled_print_big_digit(<span style="color: #40a070;">4</span>, <span style="color: #40a070;">4</span>, <span style="color: #40a070;">0</span>);
oled_print_big_digit(<span style="color: #40a070;">5</span>, <span style="color: #40a070;">0</span>, <span style="color: #40a070;">1</span>);
oled_print_big_digit(<span style="color: #40a070;">6</span>, <span style="color: #40a070;">1</span>, <span style="color: #40a070;">1</span>);
oled_print_big_digit(<span style="color: #40a070;">7</span>, <span style="color: #40a070;">2</span>, <span style="color: #40a070;">1</span>);
oled_print_big_digit(<span style="color: #40a070;">8</span>, <span style="color: #40a070;">3</span>, <span style="color: #40a070;">1</span>);
oled_print_big_digit(<span style="color: #40a070;">9</span>, <span style="color: #40a070;">4</span>, <span style="color: #40a070;">1</span>);
oled_command(OLED_DISPLAY_ON);
</pre>
</div>
<br />
Not much memory left in MSP430G2231, so I'm going to port this library to AVR for my projects.<br />
Display is really great, easy to read. This should be low power, but in off state module eats about 4mA. I guess it is because of 3.3v to 12v converter on board.<br />
Seeed Studio does not has this module anymore but has another one even smaller: <a href="http://www.seeedstudio.com/depot/grove-oled-display-12864-p-781.html">OLED 128x64</a></div>avrnoobhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03442239095072309381noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6356425659873504094.post-42900005142353122192012-02-18T19:12:00.000+06:002012-02-18T19:12:51.477+06:00Desk lamp leds retrofit with diy constant current driver<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Continuing my previous post about diy constant current boost driver for 9 leds in series, here is a mod for my burned out desk lamp.<br />
I've designed new schematics with 4 mosfets in parallel, because this is only mosfets I had on hands and they are pretty low power with high Rdson. So I decided to use as many as I can.<br />
New schematics:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNc9-FXZOxaYnD7SItw4SqYk3g38ycUgnpoTmudor8numpXUjRy0K_hxYbxqsHVNLdfLvW868N4XOdJz_lQHTKT0j253UlgUv3C6tfHI9VV9GRxEKOBf4hY2BcA9L5Dfa14ctLM5GjhBk/s1600/led-lamp.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="394" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNc9-FXZOxaYnD7SItw4SqYk3g38ycUgnpoTmudor8numpXUjRy0K_hxYbxqsHVNLdfLvW868N4XOdJz_lQHTKT0j253UlgUv3C6tfHI9VV9GRxEKOBf4hY2BcA9L5Dfa14ctLM5GjhBk/s640/led-lamp.png" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
Then I tear my desk lamp apart, throw internals away except power switch and measured insides how to fit driver pcb.<br />
With this measurments I designed new pcb:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaJY2TtAGzAxlAnuot8xgCBZrKMQ7EYcSal-XhAMmzu7E93eo2h6YB_A9ff5utwnvcnx_7x6O7WI2Anu7o9wr7SvymVPKFUJ8LCa6Hct9gex7gPAl2NJFxKB8_H0H3PHs0k7UDtplQltQ/s1600/DSC_2334.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaJY2TtAGzAxlAnuot8xgCBZrKMQ7EYcSal-XhAMmzu7E93eo2h6YB_A9ff5utwnvcnx_7x6O7WI2Anu7o9wr7SvymVPKFUJ8LCa6Hct9gex7gPAl2NJFxKB8_H0H3PHs0k7UDtplQltQ/s640/DSC_2334.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
As long as this driver can drive 9-18 leds in series I want to use 3 modules in parallel with 9 leds in series each.<br />
Here is one module pcb assempled:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBy531a6-YCQDmJfwkQ9Guu8ki04xiEgLriQj_bWLMv0ojHVWJweqyJW2Iz9NROf0lX49YdsYci5Uff9o4NuO6jm4NQdZBknge9wbPLYh821OTG7wkUyTGPGV-RhtxM6ax2S-gYOQRGWE/s1600/DSC_2333.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBy531a6-YCQDmJfwkQ9Guu8ki04xiEgLriQj_bWLMv0ojHVWJweqyJW2Iz9NROf0lX49YdsYci5Uff9o4NuO6jm4NQdZBknge9wbPLYh821OTG7wkUyTGPGV-RhtxM6ax2S-gYOQRGWE/s640/DSC_2333.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
What diy project without hotglue? Hotglued new driver assempled pcb in place.<br />
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New design has push button to switch power modes from low light to max output light. So I drilled a hole to fit this button in. It's pretty invisible and handy to switch light output.<br />
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3 led modules glued in place of cfl bulb:<br />
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And now it shines my desk, well actually just wall behind my lcd monitor =)<br />
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Sorry forgot to picture the whole build.<br />
This project is Open Source and Open Hardware as all what I'm doing here. So<a href="http://code.avrnoob.com/led-constant-current-boost-driver-on-attiny13a"> take a peek inside the sources and schematics at bitbucket.org</a> and fork if you want.</div>avrnoobhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03442239095072309381noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6356425659873504094.post-72226254036641137772012-01-19T18:10:00.001+06:002012-01-19T18:10:58.170+06:00DIY 9-18 series leds constant current driver<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
When my desk lamp died I decided it's time to upgrade it to led desk lamp.<br />
I have several 8mm straw hat leds which are laying around unused for too long. So I thought to put those into lamp mod. Then I thought about how to drive these leds with as little power wasting as possible and come across to constant current drivers. Yes I can power leds with series resistors to limit current, but there is power wasting in resistors and I can't drive each leds with the same current. In this project I wanted to learn something about boost converters and opamps, this means I'm going to do a constant current driver with voltage boost converter to power many leds in series. That way I can keep the same current on all leds in the module.<br />
I took ATtiny13A + some generic opamp and made it.<br />
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Shematics looks like this:<br />
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To test it I've made a pcb with generic white 5mm 9 leds in series and drive them with 20ma (ajustable in fw):<br />
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Yes it may look ugly, but it works. Push button is for changing power modes in final design. I've tested it on 9 leds in series with output around 27.5v and on 18 leds in series with output around 58v, works fine with not much current to leds.<br />
Actual lamp mode and source files next time.</div>avrnoobhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03442239095072309381noreply@blogger.com0