Does not have bluetooth in your car? No problem, let's do it yourself.
I had a spare iPod / iPhone dock Bluetooth A2DP receiver, never used. So I decided to open it up and fit into car 12v plug with aux out.
Here what it looks like when new:
When opened there is one pcb with OVC3860 Bluetooth chip. Actually it sounds better than ISIS chips. That why I decided to use it.
I desoldered 30 pin ipod connector with heat soldering gun.
Backside has some testpoins, maybe useful to easy solder wires for aux and power.
I traced 30 pin connector pads to testpoints and found out that this thing needs 5v power and has left, right, audio ground and 5v in and power ground on testpoints.
I've opened 12 car plug, removed guts and tried to fit this pcb in, no fit =( But with desoldered 30 pin connector there is much unused space on pcb, so I cut it to fir nicely.
Soldered 5v linear regulator and put heatshrink over it later.
Wired power and AUX out to 3.5mm female socket with screw mount and it is done.
Forget to take picture of it when closed, but there is nothing special, just plug hole visible. Sounds nice, but becomes hot almost instantly. This thing eats 100mA when receiving sound and 60mA when idle. So linear regulator works on the edge, it is rated for 100mA. But chip itself gets hot too, not sure why. Anyway I connect car AUX to this plug and have Bluetooth now.
I had a spare iPod / iPhone dock Bluetooth A2DP receiver, never used. So I decided to open it up and fit into car 12v plug with aux out.
Here what it looks like when new:
When opened there is one pcb with OVC3860 Bluetooth chip. Actually it sounds better than ISIS chips. That why I decided to use it.
I desoldered 30 pin ipod connector with heat soldering gun.
Backside has some testpoins, maybe useful to easy solder wires for aux and power.
I traced 30 pin connector pads to testpoints and found out that this thing needs 5v power and has left, right, audio ground and 5v in and power ground on testpoints.
I've opened 12 car plug, removed guts and tried to fit this pcb in, no fit =( But with desoldered 30 pin connector there is much unused space on pcb, so I cut it to fir nicely.
Soldered 5v linear regulator and put heatshrink over it later.
Wired power and AUX out to 3.5mm female socket with screw mount and it is done.
Forget to take picture of it when closed, but there is nothing special, just plug hole visible. Sounds nice, but becomes hot almost instantly. This thing eats 100mA when receiving sound and 60mA when idle. So linear regulator works on the edge, it is rated for 100mA. But chip itself gets hot too, not sure why. Anyway I connect car AUX to this plug and have Bluetooth now.







I did this same thing with a very similar unit, but I found the audio output to be terribly noisy, which was disappointing.
ReplyDeleteYea I had one with CSR cbluetooth chip and it was low volume and noisy. But with this one with OVC3860 chip it sounds nice. And if you don't have audio isolation transformers on your aux line noise can come from power lines.
DeleteHi there,
ReplyDeleteI'm considering using this thing: http://www.elecfreaks.com/store/audio-bluetooth-speaker-moduleovc3860-p-436.html
in a DIY bluetooth car powered module and it is also OVC3860 based as well.
I was just wondering if your unit has pop/crackle suppression built into the circuit as I hear this is a common issue among lower cost bluetooth units.
Also is the general frequency response and sound clarity pretty good? I tried out a bluetooth unit from Griffin Tech previously and the sound was pretty fuzzy and there was also no bass whatsoever.
It does not pop when I turn it on/off, but maybe it's because I use audio transformers on aux line. Response is good to me =) Your Griffin possibly was made with ISIS chip, which is much worse =)
DeleteI thought about that module yeara ago, but cost was an issue. Now there is more devices available like this box, but with battery inside and 3mm jack line out, even easier to hack.